I am leaning against a smooth boulder on the beach, propping myself up as my feet sink into the sand. I hear the shattering of the waves as they break against the shoreline. I’ve been told that it is the monsoon season and rough seas are to be expected on this side of Mahé island. I watch as the tide washes up; the rippling edge of the water nearly reaches my toes, but it recedes before it does. My eyes grow heavier as the hour passes, but I’ve made sea-watching my routine every morning since arriving. Looking out over this spotless stretch of sand, watching the waves crash over them and seeing nothing but endless blue.
And it is blue. So, so blue.
The Seychelles feels euphoric. A paradise-like escape that seems cut off from the rest of the world. Located in the Somali part of the Indian Ocean, the Seychelles archipelago spans 115 islands. Positioned northeast of Madagascar and off the coast of East Africa, its remote location means you must pull yourself away from wherever you are, both physically and mentally. Rest assured, this is not difficult when you are surrounded by the brilliance of the azure waters that encircle the islands.
This dreamy haven continues to spoil me as I take my respite in one of its newest and most exquisite properties, Cheval Blanc Seychelles. In keeping with the LVMH luxury property’s knack for exclusivity and seclusion, the resort is a 40-minute drive from Seychelles International Airport. Along the way, I get a glimpse of life here. Fishmongers line the roads, the first telltale sign of the country’s fresh marine exports. I spot students returning home gleefully after school and Seychellois women running their day-to- day errands. The pace of life feels slower here—a sentiment which continues at the Cheval Blanc property.
My driver takes us down a forested stretch before we reach a guardhouse. Amid marshlands and dense jungle—with no sign of a lobby area in sight—it’s easy to sense the privacy this coastal address affords its guests. When I am finally greeted at the property’s reception pavilion by my majordome, Nadine, no traditional check-in procedures are required. Instead, she smiles warmly, packs my bags into a buggy and whisks us both away. Her priority, she tells me, is making sure I get settled in comfortably; anything clerical can be done later.
As Nadine drives me up the hill, I get my first glimpse of the main resort. We pass majestic banyan trees (the property was once a Banyan Tree, after all) that tower over a formidable waterfront, anchored by a mystifying sculpture. Conceived by French multidisciplinary artist Prune Nourry, this distinctive four- metre-tall figure, ‘La Centauresse’, embodies the shapely curves of a woman fused with the body of a horse.
She is a rich, spiritual symbol that weaves together the equine motif of Cheval Blanc with the ancient Greek mythology of the Amazons, which tells heroic tales of female warriors with godlike strength. Fitting, for a matriarchal country that reveres its women. Encircled by water, ‘La Centauresse’ feels at one with the archipelago—as if its divine quality is rooted in the beauty of the Seychelles.
Like the myth of the centaur, the rest of Cheval Blanc Seychelles feels enrobed in a dialogue of its own. There are plenty of pathways and small roads for buggies, but hardly anyone in sight. The expansive main lodge—which houses most of its dining options and gorgeous boutique—feels like it is at rest. Occasionally, a member of the staff walks across. Throughout the rest of my stay, the only times I am reminded of other guests are at mealtimes.
This sense of privacy extends to the rest of the resort. There are 52 villas on its grounds, yet I barely notice them. Tucked away behind lush greenery, my villa is a blissful escape that lies behind closed doors. Every view at Cheval Blanc Seychelles is stunning, but the best seat in the house might just be on the terrace of an Ocean Hill Villa.
Stepping in, my senses are immediately awakened. Each villa is beautifully appointed with elevated touches of seashell whites and light woods, allowing plenty of natural light to filter in. Punctuating these softer notes, a statement tapestry by Malagasy artist Joël Andrianomearisoa enlivens the space with a wondrous jolt of colour, weaving in the palette of the Seychelles, from lush greens to azure blues and sandy creams. Yet it is the marvellous view of the dazzling waters off Anse Intendance, the pristine beach on the southwestern coast of Mahé, that steals the show.
My sense of space operates differently here, as I note that the villa feels even more expansive due to how it spreads laterally, rather than a typical tiered concept. This means that from end to end, my view of the ocean’s splendour is undisturbed—whether I’m lounging on the bed or relaxing in the bath. My villa also affords me one other way to experience the water: in my very own private pool. It is certainly my first instinct once Nadine leaves me to my whims. A quick change into my swimsuit and I plunge into the inviting waters before me.
It turns out to be the perfect hour to do so as the sun is about to set. As streaks of warm orange and soft pinks tinge the sky, I gaze over trees that are moving in the shadows, with a twinkling horizon before me. While the pool starts to feel chilly as the temperature dips, I am told later that the property will soon be making arrangements to heat the pools.
It is but one of the many considered gestures extended by Cheval Blanc Seychelles to its guests. Its most notable show of thoughtfulness, however, lies in its impeccable majordome, or butler, service. Throughout my stay, I am assigned two majordomes, Nadine and Dawson, who take turns to ensure that I am taken care of in every way.
Every morning, all I have to do is pick up my phone and send a WhatsApp message of how, when and where I want to take my first meal of the day—be it in my suite or at Le White, which serves breakfast and dinner. Each time I leave or return to my villa, either one of them is on standby to collect me as soon as I am ready. Once, as I returned from an island tour, they had even prepared fresh cold towels and coconut water to cool me down, knowing that I would be drained from the Seychelles’ heat. They notice things I need along the way, from quietly leaving a milk frother in the kitchen of my villa for my daily brew to opening a tightly wound ketchup bottle for my fries. The loveliest gesture? A lavish bubble bath strewn with rose petals, drawn for me after a particularly long day.
Over four days, I learn the majordome team is expanding for a growing global clientele. Dawson, the newest member, is Chinese, while Nadine, who has been with the property since its opening, uses her deep experience to handle any request effortlessly.
This high level of service lets me fully immerse myself in the present. A favourite moment occurs on Thursday, when Mizumi—a Creole style heritage house serving Japanese cuisine on other nights—hosts a Seychellois cultural evening. Staff swap their usual uniforms for vibrant, botanical print traditional attire.
Served on colourful plates, a rich blend of spices and textures bursts through, often echoing Asian flavours. This reflects Creole cuisine’s deep African, Chinese, French and Indian heritage.
The gastronomic journey continues to impress throughout Cheval Blanc Seychelles. Beyond Mizumi’s contemporary Japanese menu—where the sweet, velvety black cod stands out—Vivamento offers vibrant Italian dining. Centred around a striking ceramic installation, it’s ideal for poolside pastas, fresh seafood and romantic evening cocktails.
As difficult as it is, I urge you to step outside the resort to explore Mahé by booking a hotel-arranged driver and guide. Tailor your tour to visit national parks housing giant tortoises, see native coco de mer seeds or tour the Takamaka Rum Distillery. My own exploration of the the reclaimed lands of Eden Island led me to Eden Fine Art, a beautiful gallery showcasing the work of some of the island’s best local artists.
When you finally make your way back to the resort, consider treating your tight, tired muscles to a heavenly spa ritual at the Cheval Blanc Spa by Guerlain. Lulled into a state of deep relaxation by a sensorial experience amid the lush greenery that envelops you, you’ll find any one of its nature-inspired signatures utterly transporting—be it a massage using heated seashells to reinvigorate the skin, or a Wonders of Aqua treatment that harnesses the purifying powers of water for face and body.
Suffice to say, my weary soul has been healed during my short-lived summer here. Beyond its exceptional service, however, Cheval Blanc Seychelles is a reminder that some of the world’s greatest pleasures lie in untouched, natural beauty—a rarity in this day and age. It is my mornings, then, that I’ll miss most: sinking into a beanbag on my open terrace, sipping a cup of hot green tea and taking it all in—sun, sand, sea, the Seychelles.
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