Chanel SS23
Designer: Virginie Viard
10-word show review: A confident and current take on Chanel’s coveted classics.
Location: Grand Palais Éphémère
The vision: Anchored by Alain Resnais’ film, L’Année Dernière à Marienbad, a wraparound projector anchored the Grand Palais Éphémère for Chanel’s spring/summer 2023 show. Prior to this was a short film in black and white graced by maison ambassador Kristen Stewart who also graced the brand’s show invites. “Fashion intuitively captures the zeitgeist with a very precise language, even if it is devoid of words,” the press notes read. And that is precisely what Virginie Viard succeeded in doing.
Signature silhouettes: There are a slew of perennial Chanel classics that need no introduction. Viard’s line-up played up on this, serving up familiar favourites with impeccable edge. Knee-high socks were introduced in sparkling assortments alongside mini tweed suits, half-feathered jackets and translucent sheath dresses all in a colour scheme of whites, blacks and well-placed hints of pleasant pastel pinks.
Who it’s for: The collection proved as fun as it was fashionable, but styling these pieces will require a level of dedication and discernment. While the ardent Chanel fan will take to this like a fish in water, Viard’s offerings serve a great entry point for those looking to start their journey with the maison’s ready-to-wear.
Miu Miu SS23
Designer: Miuccia Prada
10-word show review: Back to basics with T-shirts, sweaters and utilitarian fare.
Location: Palais d’Iena
The vision: Miuccia Prada’s vision for Miu Miu’s spring/summer 2023 showing was one brought on by utility: “This is not an easy moment to create fashion. For this collection, I wanted to explore the purpose of fashion, its reason, its usefulness in society and in culture today. Fashion can have a meaning and a reason beyond utility, to decorate, to attract. But it is important that fashion functions. I am not anti-luxury but I am anti-ostentation.”
Signature silhouettes: This sentiment was brought on by a 63-look line-up of fashionable-meets-practical pieces. Familiar silhouettes from past seasons were reimagined in equally subversive and imaginative ways: nylon ponchos, bralettes and mini skirts (for when it rains, of course), stone-washed leather pouches that hung from models’ hips and FKA Twigs’ shirt-and-sweater combination paired with a nylon skirt.
What to shop from the collection: As far as Miu Miu’s hot streak is concerned, this collection looks like it will contribute to the brand’s unfaltering cult status. As with Prada, the line-up’s nylon offerings, from the bralettes to the skirts, are bound to be both current and ever-lasting. On the outwear front, the stonewashed leather jackets are both a timely statement and wardrobe must-have for colder days.
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