Vogue’s best looks from the Balenciaga and Valentino fall/winter 2023 shows

Balenciaga FW23

10-word show review: A pared-back approach to Balenciaga’s basics, from streetwear to denim.
Designer: Demna
Location: The Louvre 

The vision: Given the controversies from the last few months, Demna’s collection for Balenciaga FW23 was a fashion week wildcard. As onlookers waited with baited breath with regards to what to expect, many were surprised at the chosen location for the afternoon: the Louvre. Guests walked into an austere and bare white space with blocked seating. A look around the venue proved nothing else was waiting in the shadows. It also seemed like a considered decision to keep the flurry of celebrity to a minimum: save for a few household names, the usual house ambassadors were not in attendance. 

Signature style: The show started with a signature Demna silhouette: a sharp-shouldered blazer which topped off an all-black look. As the other ensembles poured in, some pieces were instantly imprinted: four-legged jeans (yes, a pair sewn onto another), velour tracksuits, knee-high technical boots, evening gowns draped over bags (they were obstructed by fabric) and as seen on other runways so far, maxi-maxi-maxi bags.

What to shop from the collection: For lovers of the fan-favourite Hourglass bag, this collection in particular seemed to introduce many new and exciting versions of it, from floral-print variations to ones in stark colourways. The brand’s gowns sported sparkling finishes and statement shoulders—these same shoulders found themselves on puffer jackets and tracksuits—proved an unexpectedly elegant addition to the line up, a casual-meets-sophisticated option we think could find place in one’s wardrobe. 

Valentino FW23

10-word show review: Black tie attire reimagined through playful gowns, separates and accessories.
Designer: Pierpaolo Piccioli
Location: Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild

The vision: Hosted at the elegant Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s fall/winter 2023 collection was unveiled amongst the glitz and glamour of both location and company. In the audience was a star-studded line up ranging from Priyanka Chopra and Nick Jonas to Florence Pugh and Anwar Hadid, all who bore witness to the Italian designer’s reimagination of the concept of “black tie”. “An instruction can become an invitation, a dress code can liberate and limitation can free [oneself]. Equally, universal symbolism can be open to reinterpretations and redefinition. Archetypes can be re-imagined, and a power in the familiar can come from its rediscovery in a new context,” shares the maison. 

Signature style: Those who are familiar with Piccioli’s work will recognise similar and consistent tropes: elaborate gowns, expertly cut shirts and strong, statement coats. Inspired by the outfit choice of his daughter on a night out—she had wanted to borrow one of his fitted suits—the designer sent down a bevy of models in varied looks, all melded together by the emblematic black tie. This collection felt more youthful than the seasons before, largely due to the choice of accessories and make up: eyeliner swiped to the edge of the models’ eyes, chunky earrings, lip rings and more.

What to shop from the collection: It’s no secret that anything Picciolo touches turns into shoppable gold. Take, for example, Valentino’s widely-popular V logo bags and towering platform heels—accessories that you’d be hard-pressed not to see touted about by the fashion set. This collection is no different. We foresee the long, rectangular hand pouches—seen in canary yellow, black and more—being a quick fan favourite alongside the slightly more angular top handle that comes in a variety of pink. Topped off with the brand’s emblematic stud, and you’ve got yourself an of-the-moment accessory to add to your rotation.