Show review in a sentence: A playful cast of characters steps through Acne Studios’ warped universe, where familiar codes are twisted just enough to feel new again.
Designer: Jonny Johansson
Location: College des Bernardins
There were so many characters woven into Acne Studios’s fall/winter 2026 show that I found myself pulling from different places in my head to piece them together. It almost became a little game.
The first thing that caught my eye were Amelia Earhart–esque accents: cropped leather jackets, aviator headgear and cuffs paired with tights and heels. Then came prim cardigans and flared skirts, an unexpected moment of buttoned-up propriety that felt almost nostalgic. Distorted blazers followed, worn the wrong way round—more recognisably Acne—along with fur-cuffed capris and fresh iterations of the brand’s signature denim.
If the show was a portal, then a cast of personalities seemed to step through it, each arriving from a different place and time. Together they revealed the many layers the brand has built over the years: distorted tailoring, playful styling and construction, flashes of denim and, of course, killer accessories.
As for the pieces to shop, anyone who has been paying attention will know how well Acne’s alpaca and cashmere scarves have been doing. This season, Jonny Johansson proposes a new way of “scarfing”, with delicate silk scarves trailing along the ground, more statement than practicality. The cropped leather motor jackets will likely be a hit in warmer climates like ours (my favourite was the bright blue one), while the fur-lined capris offer a more daring proposition that could still translate in the tropics with the right styling. And of course, you cannot go wrong with the bags. This season brings a return to larger, rounder silhouettes—something we are seeing across other brands too—offering a break from the east-west shapes like Acne’s viral multipocket style of recent seasons.
It is not the most immediately palatable collection and it takes a bit of imagination to figure out how you would wear it. But I suppose that’s the fun of it. This is dressing for someone who isn’t particularly interested in rules.

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