With a sea of viral A-listers on the front row it’s difficult for catwalk jewellery to make an immediate impact, particularly if your seating is less than celebrity-adjacent. Luckily for spring/summer 2024, luxury houses and jewellery designers had a few tricks up their sleeves for piquing the interest of their audience (and prospective shoppers), whether it was with Palomo Spain’s supersize rose earrings, Tom Ford’s sculptural cuffs, Erdem’s animal antenna tiaras or Burberry’s bohemian beading. Chains and hoops were reinterpreted, asymmetry reigned supreme (see Dior, Alexander McQueen and The Attico) and the hair clip had a sparkling out-out update. Behold, the seven biggest jewellery trends from the spring/summer 2024 runways.
The biggest (and boldest) bracelet trend on the spring/summer 2024 runways, the sculptural cuff was a standout. Just look to Luar, Tory Burch, Blumarine, Louis Vuitton, Giorgio Armani… the list goes on! At Loewe, chunky golden and purple cuffs, paired with leather tailoring and Delphic dresses evoked the Lynda Benglis sculptures that accented the runway, and at Tom Ford, they reflected the seductive ’90s minimalism of Peter’s Hawkings’s creative debut for the brand.
A salt-sprayed eternally-holidaying mindset always infiltrates the spring/summer catwalks, and bohemian beading was perfectly on point for out-of-office aspirations. Cue strings of silver beading worn with asymmetric dresses at Burberry, stacked up “CC” logo necklaces at Chanel (perfect for pairing with the brand’s thong flip flops), Casablanca’s bold shell necklaces and earrings, and at Rabanne, spiritual retreat-ready hunks of crystal adorning chunky rings and numerous golden toe rings.
Forgive the pun, but it was certainly a roar-some season for catwalk jewellery. There was a whole animal kingdom’s worth of inspiration, from farmyard-inspired cow earrings at Tory Burch, to insect antenna-like tiara’s and dragonfly necklaces at Erdem, frighteningly lifelike snake necklaces at Y/Project, and XL butterflies at Nicola Brognano’s last show for Blumarine. Animal, vegetable or mineral? You know the answer for spring/summer 2024.
Going In Circles
The popularity of hoop earrings knows no bounds, revisited and updated season after and season with new proportions and embellishments. The hoop 2.0 for spring/summer 2024? Leather-wrapped in naturalistic hues at Hermès, ovular and emblazoned with the “V” Valentino logo, chunky and angular at Alexander McQueen, snuggly hugging the ear at Jil Sander, and whimsically pearl-adorned at Dior.
These aren’t floral jewellery pieces for shrinking violets… designers upped the ante when it came to spring/summer 2024’s catwalk blooms. The rose was the most prolific motif on the catwalks, and none bloomed larger than Palomo Spain’s drop earrings or the long-stemmed corsages at Simone Rocha. Elsewhere a garden variety of inspiration… floral bouquet earrings at Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood and Holzweiler and sparkling camellias at Chanel.
Let It Slide
Experiencing malaise related to the crystal embellished ballet shoe? The haute hair slide is your new party-ready evening wear accessory. Just look to Tory Burch’s delicate head pieces, made from a spiderweb of silver beads, the Stepford Wives-adjacent bow hair clips at Versace, or the Balenciaga hair ties, bejewelled not with rhinestones, but lost-at-the-end-of-the-night house keys.
Like the hoop earring, the chain necklace is always a seasonal contender for a timeless investment. How to boost your linked in profile for spring/summer 2024? Curvaceous silver hardware at The Attico’s debut runway show, chunky transparent bracelets at Sacai, spindly chokers and delicate strands at Kiko Kostadinov and Rokh, strand upon strand of golden lengths at Tom Ford, plus opulent, pirate’s bounty chains at Louis Vuitton.
This article was first published in British Vogue.