10-word show review: A baring ode to the relationship between clothing and nakedness.
Designer: Anthony Vaccarello
Location: Place Jacques Rueff
The vision: What would clothes look like if they were invisible? That was the question Anthony Vaccarello posed at Saint Laurent’s fall/winter 2024 show today. The theme of the evening was “x-ray,” and this manifested in Vaccarello’s vision, clear and unabashed. “Anthony Vaccarello reminds us of what once was at the centre of fashion by rendering it invisible: clothes,” explains the maison in press notes. An undercurrent of the collection was the “naked” dress famously adorned by Marilyn Monroe, a reference that Vaccarello turned on its head with incredible nuance. He also sought to experiment with the idea of fashion disappearing as we know and feel it, an intangible force reduced to nothing but dust in the wind.
The vibe: Dark, sensual and moody, a jewel-toned green painted the walls of the show venue. The floors, an inky black, were reminiscent of oil-slicked puddles and a delicious sandalwood scent lingered in the air. The brand’s celebrity showgoers emanated a similar sense of elusiveness, with Kate Moss, Zoe Kravitz, Rose and Zoe Saldana discreetly arriving, decked in some of Saint Laurent’s sultry offerings. Simple yet plush black leather sofas snaked around the room, curved and soft, and guests—most in an apt uniform of sheer separates and razor-sharp stilettos—lounged, pre-empting the show’s dichotomy of softness and edge.
Signature silhouettes: “Transparency—a Saint Laurent signature—is re-read, minimising the distance between garment and skin so the two effectively meld and fabric evaporates like mist, caressing the leg just below the knee, the length is classic, but the content is novel,” adds the maison. Illustrating this most acutely was an eye-catching selection of sheer, silk dresses, so expertly draped that the models became one with them. Envisioned in a palette of muted browns, greens, blues and blacks, they were accompanied by tightly bound accents, from looming faux fur stoles to sharply styled head wraps. Crepe georgette suits and liquid leather jackets added another sensorial dimension to the line up and steely accessories such as earrings and necklaces anchored any inkling of cloudiness. Above all else, this was a collection that evoked a sense of visual travel—with each drape, fold and turn—to play an integral and pivotal role in experiencing the light-handed beauty of Saint Laurent in its full glory.
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