It’s Valentine’s Day when Vogue’s first date with Adrian Appiolaza is scheduled inside Moschino’s Milan studio. The new creative director of Moschino has officially been in the role since 11 January and will present his first show this Thursday, 22 February. “And this is my very first interview,” he says as we sit.
If the timescale between Appiolaza’s appointment and debut feels tight, it’s for the saddest of reasons. Following the departure of Jeremy Scott last March, Moschino appointed Gucci veteran Davide Renne to the creative directorship. Only 10 days into the job, Renne suddenly died. Both out of respect and in order to do its utmost to identify the best possible successor to Renne, Moschino’s management took as long as it could (still only a few weeks) to identify and announce that successor while remaining conscious of the imperative to restart Moschino’s creative direction this autumn season.
Those tight deadlines are why, when we meet eight days before his debut, Appiolaza himself has yet to see the collection with his own eyes. “I want to do something with respect to the situation,” he says, “so I’ve worked with the design team to create the garments. We organised everything to be made with fabrics that were already in-house and ready to go. Then, on Saturday, they will arrive, and we start a few days of play; dressing the girls and creating these characters that I have in my mind. But everything has yet to be worked out and tested.”