When it comes to fashion, chicness and subversiveness can often find themselves at conflicting ends of the spectrum. It takes a designer with focus and clarity to balance both—and through that, the desirability of the garment flourishes. South Korean fashion designer Rok Hwang is one such creative. Though born in South Korea, Hwang grew up in Austin, Texas, where his exposure to fashion was few and far between. He then moved to London in 2004 to attend Central Saint Martins, where he earned a BA in menswear and an MA in womenswear. During this time, he trained under the late Professor Louise Wilson, who mentored fashion greats such as Alexander McQueen, Jonathan Saunders, and Christopher Kane, among many others. In school, Hwang was a star student, winning the first prize for Central Saint Martins’ graduate collections in 2009.
Following his time at Central Saint Martins, Hwang moved on to join Céline in Paris, where he worked under Phoebe Philo as a ready-to-wear designer for her landmark debut collection for the house, before embarking on freelance work at Chloé and Louis Vuitton. Being part of Philo’s team created a solid foundation for his work. Hwang adopted the same modern sensibility that Philo is known for, albeit with an injection of play. This design ethos became the unique perspective of his label Rokh since its inception in 2016.
So, how does Hwang inject a sense of play into his designs? In one word: modularity. His pieces constantly invite purveyors to touch, feel, and explore. From buttons that can be attached in various ways to reversible items, Hwang’s twist on otherwise serious silhouettes sets him apart from other designers. Instead of relying on glitzy prints and voluminous silhouettes, he continues to focus on the intimate relationship between the wearer and the garment. Rokh’s designs always exhibit refinement—while they possess quirkiness, there is also a sense of control. It seems that everyone should own a piece of Rokh—and H&M is now making it a reality. Linking up with Rokh as the latest rendition of its coveted designer collaboration series, H&M is launching a collaborative capsule with the label on 18 April 2024. Spanning menswear, womenswear, and accessories, the
collection features some of Rokh’s signatures, from double-layer trench coats to detachable-hem dresses.
Here, editor-in-chief Desmond Lim speaks to Hwang about his design ethos, his collaboration with H&M, as well as what he would like to see more in the sartorial space in 2024.
How did growing up in Austin influence your perspective on design?
Growing up in Austin, I didn’t encounter much fashion or art, which perhaps left me somewhat innocent in terms of my perspective on things. At that time, Austin was still quite green in terms of its arts scene; it was more of a suburban area with beautiful nature. It never crossed my mind that I would be involved in design or fashion. When I first experienced arts and culture away from home, it was a big shock. I absorbed everything like a sponge and fell in love with music, fashion, and various forms of visual arts. This feeling intensified when I first stepped foot in London, and I believe it was crucial for my growth as a designer.
Having worked at houses like Céline, Chloé, and Louis Vuitton, what’s the most valuable life experience you’ve gained as a designer?
I think the one thing that I loved and thought was beautiful was that everybody who worked in the industry, especially in the luxury sector, was really focused on delivering a visually artistic direction while ensuring clarity and coherence. Most of it is driven by our passion.
How did you feel about joining esteemed designers like Margiela and Lanvin for the H&M and Rokh collaboration?
When I think of H&M, fashion-forwardness, sustainability, and friendliness come to mind. H&M has a prominent history of successful collaborations. I felt deeply honoured to be a part of it. Additionally, I was so grateful and thrilled to have the opportunity to share my core DNA with a wider global audience. It was truly a privilege and I was happy to engage in such a fun and exciting project.
Describe how your aesthetic influences the newness and desirability of this collection.
For this collection, we focused on constructing a timeless and beautiful wardrobe. Simultaneously, however, you will find a very playful way of designing. There are multiple ways of styling one singular piece as a way to characterise yourself. For example, you will find two layers of trench coats amalgamated together and also buttons in the “wrong” places on an otherwise clean silhouette. It becomes a detail that’s intimate to the wearer. You can take off one sleeve and button it up however you like. Suddenly, that becomes a new style that is unique to you. I think that element is key to my designs, especially for this collection.
What do you think is a must have from the collection?
It is the trench coat for me. We have really put in a lot of our time and dedication to make sure that it reflects our iconic brand DNA. If you want a true Rokh garment, that’s the piece you need to get.
What do you like to see more in terms of style and fashion 2024?
I dream about the energy from the ‘90s and early ‘00s. That was the time when designers really kind of focused on their unique languages and building their characteristics. I want to see more of each designer’s independent voice in their designs, for them to really express and be true to themselves. That’s what I hope to see and what I want to embody as well.
The H&M x Rokh capsule collection will be available to shop in selected stores and at hm.com on 18 April 2024.
