It’s safe to say that the launch of British fashion designer Phoebe Philo’s eponymous label was one of the most eagerly anticipated fashion events of 2023. Since the start of her career at French luxury house Chloé in 1997, Philo has amassed a cult following. After ending her legendary decade-old stint at Celine in 2017, the designer vanished, only to announce her LVMH-backed label two years ago.
Stirring the desires of fashion insiders and fervent fans of Philo’s work alike, many speculated on what the eponymous label could bring to the current sartorial landscape. A gap of six years is certainly a long time in fashion and onlookers questioned if her ethos would stand the test of time. It evidently has, with many of the drop’s items selling out in a mere matter of minutes.
Phoebe Philo’s debut collection is a brandish of Philo’s codes: whispers of play and sensuality packaged as highly wearable and chic garments. Boulder shoulders are seen on blousons, coats and blazers amongst other silhouettes and accessories. For one, the debut line offers an oversized tote and a shoulder bag with three compartments.
This time, Philo takes hardware out of the picture almost entirely (except for clasps and zip closures), with a blind emboss of the brand’s logo that’s virtually invisible. Appearing only in colourways like white, black, brown and oxblood, the accessory offerings are more minimal in style. As for jewellery, geometric shapes are aplenty. Above all, a necklace featuring chunky gold letters spelling out ‘MUM’ repeatedly was arguably the most unexpected piece to emerge from Philo’s repertoire.
Below, Vogue Singapore has picked out the debut collection’s best, so pick them up if they haven’t already been sold out.
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Phoebe Philo hand-combed embroidered dress, £2,600
Available at Phoebe Philo.
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Phoebe Philo tailored column dress, £2,500
Available at Phoebe Philo.
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Phoebe Philo hand-combed embroidered tailored trousers, £3,500
Available at Phoebe Philo.
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Phoebe Philo double-breasted coat, £12,000
Available at Phoebe Philo.
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Phoebe Philo trench coat with attachable scarf, £4,200
Available at Phoebe Philo.
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Phoebe Philo hand-combed embroidered coat
Available at Phoebe Philo.
