As fashion in Southeast Asia continues to bloom and flourish, it seems one particular city has climbed to the top of the food chain. An eclectic scene that prides itself on reinventing the wheel while staying true to its traditions, Malaysia’s capital is known to creatives for its artisanal bars, buzzy art hubs and annual fashion extravaganza Kuala Lumpur Fashion Week (KLFW).
Housed beside the iconic Suria KLCC shopping mall in August, KLFW 2024 was bigger and brighter than ever, boasting over 50 brands and approximately 13,500 show attendees. The seven-day affair was held in a sprawling 12,000 sq ft show space, stretching from one end of the KLCC Park esplanade to the other. Within it was the main show hall, various fashion-adjunct booth activations and a large LED screen panel that live-streamed all the shows.
This year’s line-up included a myriad of newcomers who were eager to showcase their vision and leave a mark. Ready to-wear labels such as Ghostboy, Shals and Tact displayed collections filled with exuberance and vigour, making a statement alongside returning local juggernauts Behati, Alia Bastamam and Rizman Ruzaini.
Among the list of must-see shows was MSYD’s high-octane presentation. A high-street brand that looks to merge bold design with cultural narratives, MSYD plays on themes of cyberpunk, dystopia and utilitarianism. Behind the brand is 28-year old Malaysian designer Masyadi Hussaini Mansoor, whose burgeoning portfolio—one that includes winning the KLFW 2023 Best Emerging Designer award—has earned him the reputation as one to watch. Shares Masyadi of his brainchild: “MSYD is my alter ego. It allows me to explore and communicate the complex and intense aspects of my emotions and ideas.”
Titled 99 Problems, his latest collection draws inspiration from roses and how they are synonymous with the ebbs and flows of everyday life. “To me, roses embody duality,” muses Masyadi. “There is a level of beauty and complexity present, much like the various challenges that accompany success in life. This MSYD collection looks to reflect that contrast, with designs that highlight the tension between struggle and growth. Just as a rose blooms despite its thorns, we often flourish in the face of adversity, turning difficulties into something striking and meaningful.”
And striking were the garments, imbued with sleek tailoring, subversive detailing and provocative fetish wear. It was the perfect balance of demure and brazen, further punctuated with high-octane show graphics and a diverse casting that saw older faces and non-binary models. “The journey from ideation to execution for this collection was filled with deep reflection,” notes Masyadi. “As I looked at significant moments from the past and present, I found myself riding a wave of emotions. [This collection] is not just a showcase of my skills, but a reflection of my personal and creative evolution, highlighted by the challenges I’ve faced along the way.”
Here, the MSYD designer speaks to Vogue Singapore on weaving a narrative through design, maintaining relevance through reinvention and giving back to the local fashion community.
Could you take us through the motivation and inspiration behind MSYD?
The motivation behind starting MSYD came from my desire to create clothing that tells a story and reflects the challenges and triumphs of being an independent designer. My journey has been filled with personal and professional growth, and I wanted to channel all these experiences into my brand.
Present in your latest collection are specific nods to your adolescence. Could you elaborate more on these references?
Several of the garments from this collection were inspired by school uniforms and patchwork detailing, both of which are deeply personal to me. The school uniform represents the structure and conformity I experienced in my youth, while the patchwork reflects the creativity and resourcefulness I developed growing up with a mother who was a tailor. It’s a homage to my roots and the formative experiences that shaped my design aesthetic.
The casting for your show was diverse in terms of age and appearance. Could you share a little more about the casting process?
The casting for the show was intentional in its diversity. MSYD is made for everyone and we wanted to reflect that through the wide range of ages, sizes and backgrounds. Casting has always been crucial for me. I’m particular about who carries my designs and it’s important for the models to not only to fit the clothes but to also embody the spirit and attitude behind each piece.
“MSYD is my alter ego. It allows me to explore and communicate the complex and intense aspects of my emotions and ideas.”
Those who have followed your brand for some time have come to expect something completely different every season. Why is this the case for your designs?
Every season, I strive to bring something different because fashion is an ever-evolving art form. I believe in the power of reinvention and challenging myself to explore new ideas and aesthetics. This approach keeps the brand fresh and exciting for myself and my audience.
As an emerging brand, what are some of the challenges you face?
Limited resources, visibility and balancing creativity with commercial viability are all common struggles for smaller brands. However, these challenges push me to be innovative and resourceful, thinking outside the box and constantly finding new ways to stand out within the industry.
How have local fashion weeks helped spotlight emerging talent? What would you like to see more of or change?
Local fashion weeks, such as KLFW, have been instrumental in providing a platform for designers to present their works to a broader audience and to connect with industry professionals, which are essential for any designer’s growth. However, beyond this, I’d like to see more emphasis on additional resources to support young talent. This could be through mentorship programmes, funding opportunities and branding or marketing workshops. That way, emerging designers would have a better understanding of the business side of fashion, helping them grow and navigate the industry more effectively.
Lastly, what’s next?
International expansion has always been the goal since the beginning and I am excited to explore new collaborations with other creatives and brands that move the needle. I am also focusing on developing eco-friendly materials and sustainable practices for future collections, giving back to the community that has supported us along the way.
The October anniversary ‘Community’ issue of Vogue Singapore is available online and in-stores now.
