Amidst the flurry of new brands today that continuously aim to push the status quo, there is much to be said about the small group of designers whose works revolve around handcrafted goods. Often made with utmost intention and emotion, these trailblazers pride themselves on adopting a slow and meticulous approach to design, often weaving together a narrative that bridges culture and personal expression through their innovative artisanal products.
On local grounds, three craftsmen stand out from the herd, strung together by their common goal of revitalising the art of handmade leather goods. The respective artisans—Delvin Teo of The Rollers Parlour, Samuel Yew of Guised, and Lim Ting Yang of Devil’s Play Craft—each bring about a fresh perspective on the millennium-old practice, their styles synonymous yet distinctive. The Rollers Parlour offers key fobs, sandals and even selvedge denim, all quintessential style tropes associated with the Americana aesthetic. On the flip side, Devil’s Play Craft is steeped with biker and goth sensibilities, its bags and accessories embossed with metallic buckles and studs. Lastly, Guised produces wallets, belts and bracelets constructed entirely from horse culatta leather, boasting intricate stitch detailing that references dark avant-garde brands like m.a+ by Maurizio Amadei and Boris Bidjan Saberi.
“Each item is crafted with passion, and we hope our buyers appreciate the effort and love behind every creation.”
Shares Yew of the the gravitation towards leather fabric as his creative canvas: “(Leather) is a tough and durable fabric filled with grain irregularities, making each cut and piece uniquely distinctive. This adds a level of character to the end product that is made, infusing it with a deeper meaning and elevating it beyond mere functionality.” Yang shares similar sentiments, encouraging all of his customers to wear their items with thoughtfulness and care. “Each item is crafted with passion, and we hope our buyers appreciate the effort and love behind every creation,” he muses.
However, despite what seems to be a recent spike in interests towards these artisanal brands, the designers remain grounded, well aware of the challenges faced in such a cutthroat market. “Given the high cost of rent and production in Singapore, I hope the government can provide more grants to help such crafters,” remarks Teo.
Below, the founders of the respective brands speak on building a homegrown business, carving their niche, and fostering a deeper appreciation for artisanal goods within the local landscape.
The Rollers Parlour
What was the motivation behind starting your own brand?
It has always been a dream to start my own brand as a kid. Additionally, I always struggle with finding comfortable and functional garments that I wear often, hence having my own brand helps fill in these wardrobe gaps.
Could you share the sources of inspiration and references behind your craft?
Honestly, my inspiration is derived from everyday life and people-watching. I often get intrigued by what others are wearing, and how I can improve something on them.
What do you wish to convey to your consumers through your products?
I want them to experience my products and think that they have spent their money well. A good quality item should last a lifetime, with the patina of frequent wear providing character to the product that is unique to an individual.
In recent times, there seems to have been a surge in homegrown craft brands. What do you think is driving this increase?
It started during covid when everyone was stuck at home with nothing to do, which led to an increase in people learning to personalise their own items. There is a certain feeling of satisfaction when you make something you are proud of entirely from scratch.
What is next for your brand?
I guess what’s next for The Rollers Parlour would be a proper launch since it has only been a side project for the past few years. You can expect to see clothings, accessories and footwear.
Guised
What was the motivation behind starting your own brand?
Initially, leather crafting was just an enjoyable pastime for me. However, it quickly blossomed into a deeper passion, allowing me to enter my own creative bubble where I could just design without any worries. As I continued crafting, friends and acquaintances began showing interest in my products, which motivated me further to share my vision with a broader audience.
Could you share the sources of inspiration and references behind your craft?
Carol Christian Poell, Incarnation, and Isamu Katayama are several brands whose design ethos I look up to. Apart from that, most of my ideas come from experiencing life around me, blending these observations with my personal love for all things leather.
What do you wish to convey to your consumers through your products?
When someone buys my products, I want it to resonate with them on a deeper level and become a treasured part of their rotation. Leather is a fascinating material as it ages and develops patina over time, moulding itself based on the wearer’s lifestyle. Beyond that, I strive to create products that customers can connect with physically and mentally.
In recent times, there seems to have been a surge in homegrown craft brands. What do you think is driving this increase?
I think the surge is due to a growing confidence the locals have in the fashion scene here. More brands are emerging in this seemingly small scene, and seeing them succeed is empowering others to believe they can break out as well. Social media has also provided these brands with more exposure, helping them build a customer base outside of Singapore.
What is next for your brand?
I wish to continue challenging conventional perceptions of what can be made from leather. We have been hard at work researching and developing ready-to-wear prototypes, and have some exciting collaborations coming up as well. Additionally, I would like to explore footwear in the future.
Devil’s Play Craft
What was the motivation behind starting your own brand?
I used to work full-time as a leather craftsman for a commercial brand. That experience taught me a lot about where my interests and preferences lied, specifically what I liked and valued. I decided to take a leap of faith and chase my passion, thus leaving my job to start my own creative venture.
Could you share the sources of inspiration and references behind your craft?
One major influence would be the Japanese, and how they embody a profound respect and appreciation for their traditions and cultures. Japanese artisans set a unparalleled standard of ingenuity, one which we try to emulate here at Devil’s Play Craft.
What do you wish to convey to your consumers through your products?
This brand has helped me step out of my comfort zone and push myself to try things I never thought I would, and I wish to inspire as many people as possible in a similar way. I also wish to promote freedom of expression and individuality through one-of-one products that are unique to its owner.
In recent times, there seems to have been a surge in homegrown craft brands. What do you think is driving this increase?
I believe that the rise of social media has allowed for smaller labels to find their niche audience and build brand curiosity. This digital shift has allowed for like-minded individuals to form an emotional bond with businesses they take an interest in. It is a core philosophy of ours here at Devil’s Play Craft as well; it is never just about the purchasing the products, but also understanding and appreciating the process and story behind its conception.
What is next for your brand?
My process is one that is constantly changing, filled with growth and innovation. There are definitely plans to expand into clothing and footwear, but we will only do so when the time is right. Our goal is for these new offerings to be completely aligned with our brand’s identity and passion, without compromising our core values. As for the specifics, only time will tell.