Show review in a sentence: Miuccia Prada returns Miu Miu to the essentials, exploring the body and proportion through pared-back silhouettes and the house’s signature offbeat charm.
Designer: Miuccia Prada
Location: Palais d’Iéna
And so we arrive at Miu Miu, the final show of the season and as ever, a study in singular style. A Miu Miu person is unmistakable. You can spot them from a mile away and that clarity of character is part of the house’s enduring allure. With a cast that included Gillian Anderson, Chloë Sevigny and Gemma Ward among others, the show once again underscored what Miu Miu does best: capturing the full spectrum of women.
The first thing I noticed was the casting. Models of varying heights walked down the runway, a reminder of the many ways Miu Miu can inhabit a body. Miuccia Prada seemed intent on bringing the conversation back to form itself and through her own language of restraint. Bare bones, pale sheath dresses cut cleanly along the line of the figure set the tone. A similar approach appeared in the menswear worn by Choi Yeon-jun of Tomorrow X Together, simple, tonal and precise.
If there is any lingering doubt that the peplum is back, this collection made its case. Two peplum suits, one in deep plum red and another in navy, stood out as the more polished propositions, styled with fur trapper hats that lent a slightly rugged counterpoint. Then came the shoes, always an obsession: bejewelled sneakers, knee-high leather boots and most charming of all, sparkling slippers paired with those simple sheath dresses. A cute detail? Spiral plastic headbands that perched messily on hair both short and long, a subtle nod to the tongue in cheek nostalgia the brand has aced perfectly. This was a return to the essentials, no doubt. The body, the woman and the small, unexpected details that make the Miu Miu universe.
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