In recent years, we have witnessed an encouraging phenomenon: celebrities being candid about the sheer amount of effort that goes into making themselves look their best. That’s right—rather than chalking it up to winning the genetic lottery, the Hollywood heavyweights of today are openly admitting to the consumption of Ozempic for weight loss; platelet-rich plasma facials to bolster skin rejuvenation; and so much more. As of late, however, there has been a treatment that has been gaining significant traction amidst both the celebrity set and beauty buffs. Enter: microneedling.
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“It is essentially a treatment that utilises instruments containing rows of thin needles that penetrate the dermis to a uniform depth, creating a controlled skin injury cascade with the release of growth factors,” explains Dr Rachel Ho, aesthetic doctor at La Clinic. “It essentially creates controlled, micro-punctures in skin that result in the subsequent stimulation of collagen and elastin fibre production in these areas, thus resulting in skin remodelling.”
The word remodelling suggests a complete skin transformation—which, arguably, is what microneedling does. The enhanced bolstering of collagen generation helps smooth, firm, and tone and in one fell swoop, improving the appearance of deep-set acne scars, wrinkles, stretch marks, and more. The fact that it is minimally invasive serves as the cherry on top, resulting in the creation of at-home devices that claim to do the same thing.
This, naturally, raises the question: are microneedling gadgets just as effective? Does it carry the same risks as procedures conducted in a doctor’s office? Vogue Singapore speaks to two medical professionals to get the lowdown on the situation, from what to look out for in the latest microneedle biomedical innovations to the potential side effects that might arise from it.
What does microneedling do for your complexion, exactly?
“It is a scientifically proven method to improve many aspects of our skin by targeting common concerns like fine lines, wrinkles, acne scars, and uneven texture,” states Dr Sylvia Ramirez, medical and scientific director of Cutis Medical Laser Clinic. “Through stimulating collagen regeneration, it consistently yields smoother, firmer, and more youthful-looking skin, establishing it as a reliable tool in the pursuit of skin rejuvenation.”
Why is this procedure so popular?
While there is no singular answer that explains the procedure’s upsurge in popularity, both Dr Ho and Dr Ramirez agree that it has to do with the minimal recovery time, alongside the fact that it can be done in tandem with other treatments.
Dr Ho further expounds on this. “In the medical field, we are also seeing expanding indications for microneedling as well as advances in microneedling therapy. One of the newer innovations is the combination of radiofrequency with microneedling through the use of needle tips that release radiofrequency currents,” she says. “The addition of radiofrequency further triggers collagen and elastin production in the dermis as well as dermal remodelling. With these devices, the depth of the needles can be adjusted to specific depths to precisely target different layers of the dermis and the adnexal glands. One microneedling with RF device called Morpheus 8 also shot to fame after it was featured in an episode of Netflix’s Skin Decisions.”
Tell us about the potential risks of microneedling when done by a skincare professional.
Redness, bleeding, swelling, and discomfort are factors to look out for.
Dr Ramirez is also quick to point out, “In the hands of a skilled doctor within a controlled clinical setting, microneedling carries minimal risks when executed with proper technique and equipment. Nevertheless, patients must maintain a rigorous at-home skincare regimen to mitigate the potential for inflammation or hyperpigmentation. Despite meticulous precautions, a slight risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation remains especially for those of us with darker skin, necessitating ongoing vigilance and adherence to post-treatment protocols.”
Are at-home microneedling devices safe to use, and will they provide the same results as in-person microneedling procedures?
The consensus seems that they are largely safe for us, though Dr Ho does warn against the efficacy of such products while Dr Ramirez advises users to seek caution when employing such devices. “There is a limited penetration depth of the needles in these home devices, which are typically less than 0.5mm in depth,” Dr Ho says. “For microneedling, the depth of the needles is determined by the treatment indication. Studies recommend using needle lengths of 0.5-1.0mm for treatment of wrinkles and skin rejuvenation, and for treatment of acne scars, needle depths of 1.5-2.0mm are recommended.”
What should an individual look out for should they be looking to purchase an at-home microneedling product?
“Choose devices that are sealed, and are for one-time use only or disposable. Avoid reusing the needles as this increases your risk of contamination; and the needles get blunted,” counsels Dr Ho. “Be conservative with needle depth when purchasing at home devices. I suggest choosing needles with less than 0.5mm depth, as the deeper and thicker needles also increase one’s risk of skin infections.”
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