If you’ve been following the sustainability efforts of major luxury fashion players, you’ll be aware of the significant strides made by the global luxury group, Kering, since its inception in 1963. Today, the group oversees the development of fashion, leather goods and jewellery brands such as Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent and Boucheron. Under the leadership of chief sustainability and institutional affairs officer Marie-Claire Daveu, Kering has revolutionised best practices for sustainable fashion.
Prior to her involvement in the fashion industry, however, Daveu had an illustrious career in agriculture and environmental matters. To date, she has worked with the French government, serving as chief of staff for the minister of ecology and as the technical adviser to the prime minister. She assumed her role at Kering in 2012. During her tenure, Daveu has overseen the development of the group’s Environmental Profit And Loss (EP&L) account, a tool that measures the environmental impact of its operations. Additionally, she has overseen the conceptualisation of the Material Innovation Lab in Milan, a dedicated hub to the sourcing and creation of sustainable fabrics and materials.
Daveu’s visit to Singapore marks a three-year research collaboration with the Centre of Governance and Sustainability at the National University of Singapore (NUS) Business School. As an incentive to combat climate change, NUS is looking to conceptualise concrete remedies. This is set to be implemented in three phases: two blocks of nature-related obstacles and one on climate adaptation. The ultimate goal? To provide data with regard to present-day nature and climate practices and spotlight deficiencies.
In an interview with Vogue Singapore, Daveu expands on the biggest fashion and textile pollutants, the definition of a truly sustainable brand as well as the meaning of impact.
Hi Marie-Claire, what brings you to Singapore?
Kering is starting a new three-year partnership with the Centre of Governance and Sustainability at the National University of Singapore Business School and it will be focused on our ecosystem, biodiversity and nature. So why Singapore? When you are in the fashion and luxury industry, nature is key because most of our raw materials come from there, such as leather, gold, precious stones and cashmere. For ethical reasons, it’s important to have a positive impact on biodiversity. And on the business side, without raw materials, we can’t do anything. Singapore is able to manage its urban side with its natural side, which I think is unique. And the National University of Singapore plays a key role in Asia Pacific to set trends in biodiversity and the environment.
You’ve had an illustrious career within the domain of sustainability. What first piqued your interest in this sector?
I was always passionate about animals and their welfare, which is what prompted me to study biology. I also wanted to work for the public sector because in France, the public sector plays an important role in defining policies. When I started my first job, we had to push a lot even when we were speaking about climate change. Unfortunately, now, because we see the consequences of climate change, there is finally a big shift all over the world.
Kering is a leader in the luxury fashion industry when it comes to advocating for sustainability. The company’s EP&L is a great example of this. What are some of the benefits of some of the systems that have been put in place?
There are many different answers to this. Firstly, when Kering’s chairman and CEO François-Henri Pinault decided 20 years ago to put sustainability at the arc of the company, it was for ethical reasons. Because we are in luxury fashion, we set the trends and have the responsibility to raise awareness. Secondly, even though we are a big company, we are not big enough to change the paradigm alone. This is why we have to open source all our best practices, such as the methodology for EP&L. When I joined the company, people were saying that luxury is about fur. And thanks to François-Henri Pinault, we are the first group to have banned fur. It’s what we call modern luxury. It’s about savoir faire, heritage and quality.
What are some of the biggest pollutants from the fashion and textile industry in 2024?
It’s about overproduction, which creates leftover waste. Furthermore, there’s overconsumption of materials, which impacts pollution, energy consumption and greenhouse gas emissions. This is particularly significant when discussing the textile industry as different segments operate differently. Luxury segments, for instance, prioritise small volumes. It’s therefore interesting to note that the fashion industry as a whole is undergoing significant transformation. This is evident in initiatives like Fashion Pact, which includes fast fashion, sport brands and luxury brands, all committed to driving change.
This brings us to the France-Singapore forum, Nature In The City. What is your aim for this?
The first thing we want to do is to start a conversation. This partnership will last three years, so we have a short time frame. Perhaps you’ve already seen the results of the first report which is a map and diagnosis of how businesses and companies are paying attention to biodiversity in Asia Pacific. This report aims to raise awareness and demonstrate that many other businesses, not just in the luxury or textile industry, are heavily reliant on nature. In the future, for example, we’ll organise workshops, bringing together students and people from the business side. As a partner, Kering will be involved in this, too, to consider how we can support companies in implementing action and raising awareness among individuals who will eventually join companies and institutions.
One thing that Kering has dedicated itself to is its Material Innovation Lab. Can you tell us more about this?
Our textile-focused hub opened in 2013 in Italy with dual aims: enhancing sustainability through raw material selection and fostering disruptive innovations. The Material Innovation Lab now offers over 8,000 samples, enabling designers to incorporate more sustainable materials into their creations. Our focus extends beyond textiles to innovations in our brands like mycelium-based products at Balenciaga or Gucci’s Demetra bio-based material. By encouraging suppliers to source sustainably, we aim to transform the entire supply chain. Inspired by the Material Innovation Lab’s success, we launched the Jewellery Lab in 2020 to support brands like Boucheron, Qeelin and Pomellato. Despite initial challenges, collaborative efforts between technical and design teams have driven our progress.
How would you define a truly sustainable brand?
First thing, produce what you sell. Secondly, ensure full traceability in raw materials because without it, sustainability criteria can’t be implemented. Maximising the use of recycled raw materials helps avoid reliance on new ones. Additionally, brands should encourage product usage, whether through repairs or resale. Each production should consider environmental and social aspects, ensuring fair wages in the supply chain. It’s easier for brands to embed sustainability from the beginning, starting with design. Beyond products, sustainable brands consider their shops, certification, transportation and advertising. A holistic approach is crucial, measuring the overall footprint, including boutiques and marketing strategies. A clear framework and systematic approach are essential. Brands must consider sustainability in every decision, just as they do with cost. Starting with sustainability from the beginning is crucial as retrofitting later can be difficult.
What does impact mean to you?
It is to have positive benefits for people and the planet.
