When the logomania trend hit its peak back in 2016, it felt as if everyone was obsessed with covering themselves in designer brand names from head to toe and making sure people knew it. Remember Louis Vuitton’s spring/summer 2016 show, when the signature LV logo pattern used for its bags made their way onto leather coats too? But this season, the label-loving aesthetic is heading in a surprisingly more discreet direction. Yes, logomania can actually be subtle: Celebrities have been sporting abstract or itty-bitty logos that are barely discernible to the eye.
The new iteration of the trend makes sense: While logomania has certainly died down since 2016, it hasn’t entirely left the fashion consciousness. The Fendi by Versace pre-fall 2022 show, for one, showcased pieces which had the two Italian fashion house’s logos morphed into one on coats, bags, and everything in between. But as a whole, fashion has been embracing a quieter sensibility, with labels such as The Row, Khaite, and Bottega Veneta putting forward minimal clothes that exude a stealthy elegance. As a result, designer brands are now taking a more pared-back or abstract approach to their signature logo work, too.
For Valentino’s spring/summer 2023 Unboxing show, for instance, the Italian label debuted its Toile Iconographe monogram, which features several Vs in an artful formation; Zendaya wore the monogram via a coat, skirt, and tights to the brand’s show in Paris last month. Burberry’s spring/summer collection also had the house’s horse logo applied all over onto sheer hosiery, adding a subtle flair to simple looks. Dua Lipa recently wore sheer opera gloves from the collection on her Instagram, and you could barely tell what brand they are.
But it’s not just subtle, all-over prints taking over this season. Miniature logos have also been making an appearance on tank tops, making you squint to see them. Kylie Jenner wore a branded Loewe tank to the show in Paris last month, while actor Sheila Atim wore Prada’s tiny plaque version to its spring Milan presentation. The 2022 version of logomania, then, is clearly all about rocking designer pieces in a much more if-you-know-you-know way – though that spirit of showing off is still alive and well.
Below, more subtle logomania looks that have ruled this season.
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Zendaya in Valentino
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Dua Lipa in Burberry gloves
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Michaela Coel in Prada
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Irina Shayk in Burberry
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Jessica Chastain in Gucci
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Kylie Jenner in Loewe
This story was originally published on British Vogue.