Nothing was left to the imagination when it came to the Loewe fall/winter 2022 presentation—hardly surprising as designer Jonathan Anderson is largely recognised for his boundary-pushing portfolio that satirises modern-day themes and happenings. Take his fall/2022 menswear range, for one, where the metaverse was dubbed a source of inspiration—in a tongue-in-cheek fashion, of course. “I was using it more in an ironic way. The idea that it doesn’t really do anything,” he said in an interview with Vogue. The same sharp wit and sensibilities were utilised in this collection, albeit with a heightened focus on the human form.
In some cases, it was subtle. Minimalist leather shift dresses were draped and shaped enticingly to highlight each model’s silhouette, while turtlenecks came in skin-tight iterations harbouring collars that resembled sharpened teeth. Then, there were the pieces from the collection that blatantly addressed his fascination for the “nonsensical, irrational and pleasantly disturbing”—as stated in the show’s notes—with regard to the body. Looser-fits such as kaftan dresses came printed with images of a voluptuous figure, paired with a bra top of sorts that were inflated to create the impression of breasts. Flowing tops harboured an image of a structured blazer atop of it, making the wearer seem as if they were donning a fitted piece rather than a fluid one.
Perhaps the most captivating element, however, was the inclusion of what appeared to be balloons on high-collared jersey dresses, tucked into the folds and protruding from the fabric. It summed up Anderson’s interpretation of sex appeal perfectly—bringing to mind the question that was on everyone’s lips once the Loewe fall/winter 2022 presentation drew to a close. Can you marry conventionally erotic silhouettes with the outlandish, and still have it consumers think of said creations as sensual? If anything, we’d say it veers more towards intriguing than it does seductive. Still, at least it captured our attention.
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