As any beauty maven can attest, not all trends are made equal. Picture this familiar scenario: hooked on a look that serendipitously appeared on your feed, you eagerly unfurl your make-up artillery, deftly sweeping shades and strokes across your eyelids—only to find yourself rewarded with a disastrous display that accentuates the very features you were hoping to conceal. Frustrated, disappointed, and above all, tired, you vow to master the art of make-up that truly embraces hooded eyelids.
For those of us blessed with hooded eyelids, eye make-up can be a distressingly familiar battleground. After all, how can one revel in the joys of experimenting with graphic eyeliners and modish cut creases when an extra flap of skin cloaks the coveted eyelid?
The magic of make-up lies in its ability to enhance any visage—when it is skilfully wielded. In a tête-à-tête with Vogue Singapore, three seasoned make-up artists revealed their top tips on how to flatter hooded eyelids.
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Tip 1: Prep the eyelid
“The biggest issue for people with hooded eyes is smudging,” advises Zoel T, professional make-up artist. Remedy this by prepping the lids with a mattifying eyeshadow primer and a light dust of translucent powder to minimise any transfer that may occur between the layers of your lids.
Tip 2: Opt for a darker eyeshadow
To create more depth to the eyes, dip into a shade that is approximately three tones darker than your skin tone for a natural contour. Apply the eyeshadow slightly above the crease of your eye, stopping just about 1mm above the fold of the eyelid. Then, extend the application by approximately 2mm at the outer corners of your eyes to create the illusion of lifted eyes.
Pro tip: Professional make-up artist, Marc Teng, recommends to avoid overly frosted hues that reflect light, as they can make the lids appear puffy.
Tip 3: Softly line the outer thirds of the eye
Instead of tracing a continuous line across the eye, professional make-up artist Airin Lee suggests focusing on the outer thirds of your upper waterline when applying eyeliner. To achieve a winged effect, extend the eyeliner slightly beyond the outer corners for a “floating eyeline.” Then, complete the look by tracing a line from the corner of your lower eyelid to seamlessly connect it with the floating top liner.
To nail this technique, reach for brown or gel liners that will provide softer, more natural lines. Stark cat eyes à la liquid eyeliners, will work against your favour to accentuate the visibility of hooded eyelids.
Tip 4: Open up the eye
Give an enlarging effect to your peepers by amplifying your lashes, particularly on the outer corners. Try multiple coats of volumising mascara or consider the trimming false lashes. This technique effectively “pushes up” the eye corners, granting them a heightened prominence. Alternatively, pop on a pair of coloured or widening contact lenses to create the illusion of larger, more captivating eyes.