If there was a singular word that could sum up this standout entrant from Henry Jacques’ fragrance universe, it would be this: connection. Its name, in itself, suggests this. Les Toupies is French for spinning top, a toy from our formative years that brings to mind precious memories and attachments we’ve harboured since childhood. It comes as no surprise that Christophe Tollemer, artistic director of the maison, chose to showcase this quite literally: the bottles of the fragrances within Henry Jacques’ Les Toupies line are shaped exactly like the aforementioned toy, complete with a delicately pointed tip that cements its status as both an art piece and an architectural feat.
None of this came easy, of course. Tollemer meticulously worked on every detail of the vessel, with his biggest challenge being to make each vial multifarious without losing its sense of stability; it had to be able to contain the scent securely but also possess a design that manages to intrigue and delight. Its appearance was paramount to the essence of Les Toupies, with Tollemer insistent on the inextricability between fragrance and flacon.
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“There was a huge gap between my ‘simple’ idea of a spinning-top flacon and reality,” Tollemer explains. “Achieving structural balance while preserving hand-blown craftsmanship proved extremely complex, and adding perfume to the equation made it almost beyond reach. Nearly 50 percent of the flacons were ultimately rejected; yet Les Toupies stands as proof that, in the name of beauty, nothing is impossible.”
Three years later, Tollemer presented his magnum opus formed from mouth-blown crystal. Carefully crafted into an intricate pattern of planes and angles, the scents are made to “endlessly twirl, capturing and reflecting light while expressing the character of the fragrance within”. A seamless union, if you will, of vessel and scent to form a masterpiece like no other.
This sense of interconnectedness acts as the crux of Les Toupies, with Henry Jacques forging each fragrance as one of a half. Singularly, it comprises a distinctive identity and scent profile. When paired together, however, a fresh dimension emerges, revealing fascinating new complexities through an amalgamation of aromas.
Partner for life
Henry Jacques’ Les Toupies spans three distinct duos. The first of which is Mr. H and Mrs. Y. “Mrs. Y is my mother’s fragrance. She wonderfully wears these sophisticated perfumes that, to me, embody French elegance and refinement. Subtle, yet powerful,” states Anne-Lise Cremona, wife of Henry Cremona and one of the founders of the maison. “I came across it again at her place about a month ago and it brought back the same emotion, a recognition of something exceptional. She offered to perfume me, took her beautiful flacon and applied the fragrance to my wrists. I loved that moment of unspoken connection.’’
Mrs. Y is a radiant bouquet of florals comprising ylang-ylang, rose damascena, and jasmine. Mr. H, on the other hand, leans towards earthiness and structure thanks to the inclusion of cedar leaf and geranium. When put together, a delicate balance is formed—lightness and depth, as well as a brightness and groundedness. In short: a fragrance that works across a variety of occasions, managing to straddle the fine line of being versatile yet unique.
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Fanfan and Galileo are scents that are stronger in nature but interlaced with tender notes that linger. Described as a dialogue “where exuberance meets resonance in effortless fluidity”, warmth is the shared point between the two due to the incorporation of resinous-like ingredients. Galileo, for instance, opens with textured patchouli that eases into enveloping amber and myrrh. Fanfan further amplifies this with saffron and rose damascena, fusing together to form a rich elixir that scents the air with a deep, long-lasting sweetness.
Last but not least are N°16 and N°81. An interplay of citrus and florals, N°81 contains bergamot and grapefruit that delivers a fresh jolt, which is tempered by N°16’s flowery and powdery Rose de Mai. Their joining eventually settles into a fragrance brimming with spice and luminosity, the result of oud and sandalwood from N°81 meeting gardenia and ylang-ylang from N°16.
Together, or not
While developed in pairs, the magic of Henry Jacques’ Les Toupies stems from the individual strength and story of each scent. Like real-life relationships, every fragrance stands strong on its own, though its ideal match is never far away when you want to add a vibrant dynamic.
Get your copy of the September ‘Beyond the New’ issue of Vogue Singapore online.
