Ahead of the debut collection by newly appointed creative director Sabato De Sarno at the house of Gucci, there was fervent anticipation—and excitement—to say the least. Perhaps the most anticipated show of the spring/summer 2024 season, this collection would officially mark the end of Alessandro Michele’s tenure, hereby ushering in a new chapter for the house.
De Sarno’s debut showing was one that melded sensuality and wearability seamlessly. Certainly pared back in comparison to Michele’s fantastical, maximalist designs, the collection looked back at the house’s archives, giving several classics a refreshed update for the modern day. Svelte wool coats with peaked lapels, A-line skirts with an exaggerated slit and slinky tops with plunging necklines all provided a sharpness that was clean yet classic. The drama and pizzazz one expects from Gucci makes its appearance in understated ways, from the intricate embroidery to sparkling embellishment on several jacket collars and pockets.
The accessories this season followed suit, subdued in shape and muted in colour. Slingback pumps boasted the Gucci logo on the heel strap, gracing the feet of many models, while the iconic horsebit loafers were offered in croc-embossed platform iterations that were set to be a design staple of De Sarno’s for seasons to come. As for the bags, the Jackie shoulder bag saw an array of new shades, topped by a 900-crystal embellished option that proved to be the statement of the evening.
Following this collection came the unveiling of the Gucci Ancora campaign, one that aimed to blur the lines of personal expression and spirit through the timeless designs. Lensed by British fashion photographer David Sims, it painted a picture of an entourage of strong and individualistic women, empowered through a wardrobe both opulent and elegant. The five models gracing the campaign—Ana Ross, Fadia Ghaab, Jiahui Zhang, Nyajuok Gatdet and Violet Hume—are draped in statement pieces from the collection, each individualistic in their differences but cohesive in energy and attitude.
Even in a collection that was seemingly deemed commercial and ‘safe’, De Sarno’s vision was crystal clear: to wipe the slate clean and reinvent the wheels at Gucci, one free of irreverent glamour and provocation. The result was a no-frills approach that paid homage to the history of Gucci, filled with unparalleled craft and technique while charting a new course for the future.
The April ‘Pop’ issue of Vogue Singapore is available for sale online and in-store from 5 April 2024.
