While it might only feel like yesterday that the menswear and haute couture 2022 shows wrapped, another fashion cascade is fast approaching. Coming in hot for womenswear: the New York fall/winter 2022 shows are kicking things off this week. From 11 February to 16 February, the bustling streets of NYC are about to get busier—as celebrated designers fill up the calendar with physical and digital shows alike. And if last month was any indication of the status of the fashion sphere, it’s that there’s no stopping the changes and transitions in the industry. From genderless collections to rewriting the rules of haute couture, it’s now anyone’s game when it comes to making their own. Which is probably why there’s more to anticipate for fashion week this year.
This season, as the fashion collective reunites with established names like Coach, Prabal Gurung, Proenza Shoulder—to name a few—our eyes are also peeled out for the emerging designers that are showing this NYFW. Labels that are innovative and enchanting, yet aren’t typically seen in the headlines. Some have also tapped onto tech and the metaverse for the very first time this year. Ahead of her fall 2022 presentation, New York designer Kim Shui launched a teaser onto the metaverse—with three individual jade keys made available for auction on OpenSea. The lucky winners to own these keys will receive a physical dress of their choosing along with a surprise airdrop from the designer. All owners of the keys will also be invited to her in-person runway show on 12 February.
What these designers have in common? They each present a unique ethos with their own narrative of what fashion should look like in the modern era. Just very recently, Jlo sported an ensemble custom-made by Singaporean designer Grace Ling, while promoting her new movie ‘Marry Me’ on Fallon Tonight. It’s safe to say that more attention and recognition is now being granted to smaller, lesser-known labels—enabled by celebrities and the use of technology and social media.
Below, we spotlight the designers that have piqued our interest and whose pieces you should definitely add to your curation. Watch out for them during the upcoming New York fall/winter 2022 shows.
1 / 5
Dubbed as the ‘Queen of sling’, Kim Shui unabashedly reveals plenty of skin in her collections no matter the season. In honour of her heritage, she incorporates Chinese-inspired art with Western influences, bagging clients from Cardi B to Solange Knowles. This fall/winter 2022, she has also made her debut on the metaverse, bridging the physical-digital barriers with three NFT keys, unlocking a physical dress of its own. We certainly can’t wait for what this season of Kim Shui would bring.
2 / 5
There’s plenty of expectations surrounding the first designer to be backed by Kanye West’s incubator program. Designer Maisie Schloss thrives on linking the aesthetics of party with sportswear and technology. Apart from slinky bodycon, prints define the label (which takes her mother’s maiden name)—with patterns that are tirelessly created on Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator.
3 / 5
The brand translates to “No gender” in Italian, where the designs are meant for everybody. No genres, no pigeon-holes and where pieces can range from knitwear to formal ball gowns. Launched in 2015 by Pierre Davis, the first trans woman to appear on the official NYFW schedule, the collections are often eclectic and universal for any wearer—regardless of age, gender or race.
4 / 5
South Korean native Ashlynn Park cut her teeth at Yohji Yamamoto, before setting up her own label. The style is designed to be incredibly wearable—as she delves deep into staples like the boyfriend shirt and suit jackets. Traditional silhouettes are often reformed, taking on a sleek yet playful approach. Last season, Park showed an upcycled accessory line with the designer citing that sustainability would be a key fixture in her garments.
5 / 5
No word better sums up Saint Sintra than chaos. The label takes on otherwordly realms in the form of escapism and fantasy, often stealing the scene with loud blaring details. Yet, an incredibly fitting example of the rebellion spirit we all have in us—see Olivia Rodrigo in her “Brutal” music video. There’s curiosity, there’s sexuality and there’s freedom—we could only yearn to see more.