10-word show review: An incisive contemporary homage to Marc Bohan and the ’60s.
Designer: Maria Grazia Chiuri
Location: Jardin des Tuileries
The vision: For long-time fans of the house of Dior, you might already know the pivotal role the ’60s played for the maison. Maria Grazia Chiuri took viewers through a time capsule with a poignant tribute to Dior’s longest-standing creative director, Marc Bohan, who passed away last year aged 97. Beyond that, it was also a homage to the birth of Miss Dior—a ready-to-wear line envisioned for the maison’s younger customers—which was entrusted to Bohan’s assistant, Philippe Guibourgé. Borne out of the need for adaptability and versatility, this sensibility is reimagined for today—arguably in a different sense. In a fashion landscape where the larger-than-life always overshadows normalcy, how can we find the spark in simply being?
The vibe: Kicking things off for Paris’s autumn/winter 2024 run, Dior’s fashion week residency at the picturesque Jardin des Tuileries often sets the tone for the start of the city’s shows. With brand ambassadors Jisoo, Mingyu, and Tontawan sparking excitement and frenzy, the intricate and intimate show space created even more of a resounding buzz. Guests walked into a simple yet striking set imagined by Indian artist Shakuntala Kulkarni, which saw wooden figures in various shapes, sizes, and poses, sharply lit by overhead lights. The scenography, as imaged by Kulkarni, is said to “convey the strength of a pluralistic, autonomous, and versatile femininity, reactivating that key moment of creative freedom of which Miss Dior is the emblem.”
Signature silhouettes: Reflecting on such an era-defining decade does not come without its challenges. For this collection, however, it was clear that Chiuri’s goal was to translate the innate wearability of every piece. She did this by sticking to a few cornerstones of both the maison as well as the ’60s, from classic trench coats and streamlined checkered prints to patent gladiator boots and see-through embellished gowns, all of which boasted a sense of fluidity and movement. Sticking to a palette of neutrals (camels, blacks, greys, and whites) with just the occasional pop of colour, Chiuri made sure to maintain a tug-of-war between contemporary and classic. It boiled down to even the smallest of details: a coat with bold graffiti, a beret with gold embroidery, and encrusted dresses hinting at sheer nakedness. Tying it all together was a chignon bun that found itself on models—kempt, ladylike but ready to challenge the status quo at a moment’s notice.
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