Dior’s autumn/winter 2022 haute couture collection was inspired by folklore and tradition, and took the work of Ukrainian artist Olesia Trofymenko as its starting point. Creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri contemplates fashion “through the filter of art”, the maison said, as the designer unveiled a collection shot through with references to folkloric customs.
The make-up brief was clear, with lipstick singled out as the hero product. “It’s a pure look, simple,” Peter Philips, creative and image director for Dior make-up, told Vogue. “We tried different skin finishes but after the hair test with Guido [Palau], we decided to choose the luminous, glowy skin with a hint of colour on the sides of the face.”
Philips subtly enhanced cheeks using Dior Addict lipstick in shade 558 Bois de Rose, or 720 Icône, depending on the model’s skin tone. The shades were chosen for their buttery texture, and because neither contains any shimmer. “It’s a controlled glow but gives a second skin, glowy effect,” he explains. “It enhances glow without looking shiny or oily.”
Philips first applied the lipstick directly to cheeks and also on the back of his hand. He then blended in the lipstick already applied on the cheeks where the face had been prepped with Dior’s Prestige La Micro-Huile de Rose serum and foundation. Returning to the lipstick on his hand, he then used a brush to blend in more, finishing by also applying it under the chin. Lashes were curled and a black mascara applied at the roots, followed by the brown shade from the 5 Couleurs Couture 519 Nude Dentelle palette. Lips themselves were simply slicked with lip balm from the Dior range, to show off the models’ natural lip colour.
Hairstylist Guido Palau kept things similarly simple on the hair front, parting it in the centre and either allowing it to flow over shoulders, or styling into a simple low braid.
This article originally appeared in British Vogue.