Everyone has a guilty pleasure. For the modern beauty fiend, this might involve binge-watching jaw-dropping make-up transformation videos on TikTok—smooth transitions, dramatised expressions, and all. What comes next is often an attempt to recreate said face-altering looks, only to realise that your ‘before and after’ selfies are meagre in difference. So, what exactly are you doing wrong? Should you be of Asian descent, contour might be the answer.
It’s apparent that the physical attributes of Asian and non-Asian faces vary significantly. On a general note, East Asian faces tend to appear more two-dimensional, due to characteristics such as monolids, lower nose bridges, decreased nasal tip projection or weaker chins. Whatever you’re trying to achieve through your make-up look—whether it’s a snatched nose or jawline à la Bella Hadid and Angelina Jolie respectively—will require more depth and dimension through contouring for prominent results. But upon this revelation, the biggest blunder one could make is believing that contouring is a ‘one-size-fits-all’ approach, naively adhering to largely Westernised tutorials that fail to consider and enhance one’s unique features.
@l_yuhann Tricks kpop idols use to contour nose!!! #nosecontour #kpopmakeup #koreanmakeup #idolmakeup #lesserafim ♬ original sound – jen
In spite of this, all hope is not lost. Resorting to mewing all day long or going under the knife is far from necessary, as East Asians can successfully define their facial features with the right contouring techniques—beloved K-pop idols like Le Sserafim’s Chae-won are living proof. Below, professional make-up artist Kenneth Chia breaks down the art of contouring Asian faces, for you to shape and sculpt those angles.
What are the common mistakes made when contouring Asian features and how can they be avoided?
Asia is home to an extremely diverse range of features that require a personalised approach. Aside from physical differences, aesthetic differences between Eastern and Western beauty styles exist too. The biggest mistake I’ve seen is trying to learn contour techniques from someone who has very different features from yourself. I always recommend learning contour tips from those who share similar features as us—in the same way we reference styling tips from those with similar body types.
What make-up products should Asians use to contour specific features?
As East Asian features are generally more two-dimensional, a large emphasis is placed on creating more definition and contour, while ensuring that the overall look still remains ‘soft’. As a make-up artist, I have used everything and anything possible to contour a face—from lipsticks and brow pencils, to even eyeshadow. You can too, and at any price point. With contour, it is way more important that the correct colours are used, and that it is placed in the right areas. I recommend: Rom&nd Better Than Contour Palette, Chanel Beauty Stylo Ombre et Contour in #12 Contour Claire and Tom Ford Shade & Illuminate Duo in Intensity 0.5.
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As Asian skin tones vary widely, how should we choose the right shades for contouring relative to each individual’s skin tone?
Firstly, you should be in a room filled with some soft, natural lighting. While looking into a mirror, take note of where the sun naturally creates shadows on your face. The colour of that shadow is the exact colour you should be using for your personalised contour. For a pro-tip, I use up to 3 shades of foundation (before a cool-toned contour) to create a soft but impactful dimension.
Could you share your best contour application techniques for different Asian features?
East Asian features are generally softer, so make-up application should be approached with a lighter, more precise touch. My personal pro-tip is to use up to 3 shades of foundation before a cool-toned contour to create a soft but impactful dimension. For East Asian nose contour in particular, I would advise against blindly applying two vertical lines down the entire length of the nose—as this may further emphasise ‘flatness’. Try to focus on more specific areas instead. Let what you want to fix, dictate what your technique should be. For example, if your nose bridge slants more to the left, you should add more contour to the left side to create a straighter appearance.
How can highlighters or concealers be incorporated to complement a contoured make-up look?
People tend to rely heavily on contouring to create dimension, but forget that adding light to the face has the same effect. If you feel like an area of the face still doesn’t look snatched despite adding lots of contour, try adding some highlights to nearby areas—to result in the pro-finish you’re looking for.
