Vogue’s favourite looks from the Coach spring/summer 2023 show

10-word show review: Leather jackets, cable-knit sweaters and jelly accessories for American cool
Designer: Stuart Vevers
Location: Park Avenue Armoury, New York City

Having just announced a new global brand position centered around ‘expressive luxury’—that is, to create fashion that emotionally connects consumers to their key life moments—creative director Stuart Vevers presented a spring/summer 2023 collection characterized by oversized leather jackets and trench coats, cable-knit sweaters, and jelly sandals. And as a surprise guest: global ambassador Lil Nas X closed in a patchwork leather gilet and shorts, carrying a wristlet Tabby bag.

The spirit of the season: “Having just come out of COVID-19, people still want clothes with comfort and ease, a certain realness, but it’s about colour, texture and materials that better express your attitude,” shares Vevers backstage after the show. “Leather for me is much more desirable when it feels lived in and loved worn. When you put on a Coach jacket, you should always feel a little bit cooler.”

Sustainable pieces: “My favourite pieces in the collection are those made with repurposed materials. For example, the rugged and oversized patchwork leather pieces at the end of the show are repurposed from end-of-life vintage garments.”

The signature accessory: “It’s all about the Tabby bag. It’s a very popular style for Coach but we’ve never actually shown it on the runway. There’s also a jelly version of the Tabby that feels fun and summery,” says Vevers. “A great bag can give you that boost, to hold your head up higher, to make you feel good.”