Show review in a sentence: A thread that binds the past with the future
Designer: Michael Rider
Location: Celine Headquarters, 16 Rue Vivienne, Paris
The vibe: Given how fashion moves in such speed, it only just dawned on me that I haven’t seen a single Celine show or heard from the brand since 2022. A known global embargo that was set across all Condé Nast publications. Today, at Celine’s headquarters on 16 Rue Vivienne, anticipation runs high even under a drizzle as newly appointed creative director Michael Rider unveils his debut spring 2026 collection for the house.
The excitement stems not just from the fact that Celine hasn’t held a proper fashion show since 2023, but also from a shared sense of renewal. After all, I still remember my very first show in Paris, back in the noughties, being at Celine. Revisiting the house codes, tailored sportswear, trenches, and practical leather goods anchored by the iconic Triomphe logo and Blazon Chaîne motif, reveals the enduring pillars that have carried Celine through many reinventions: from Michael Kors’ ultra-chic beach-to-bar aesthetic, to Phoebe Philo’s minimal yet intellectually charged sensibility and Hedi Slimane’s androgynous rockstars of the ’70s.
The vision: Rider delivered a compelling spectrum today, spanning from ’80s college-core—brimming with irreverence and a devil-may-care attitude to the quintessential French girl aesthetic: a turtleneck and slouchy cardigan nonchalantly draped over one shoulder, finished with scarves that offered either a pop of colour or a flourish of movement. Smartly, Rider didn’t alienate Celine’s loyal clientele. The biker jackets and rock-and-roll spirit remained, albeit softened—now adorned with rows of lockets and gold trinkets, as if nicked from the bridge of Pont des Arts. Philophiles, too, had reason to rejoice: subtle references throughout the collection evoked the intellectual precision and precocious sensibility that defined Philo’s era, yet felt entirely attuned to the present. A strong debut, rich with stylistic possibilities
What to shop from this collection: Good styling is what sells a collection and today, it was immaculate. From the excessive neck trinkets (look 2) to the high waisted coupe carotte pants washed in dusty blue tucked effortlessly into a pair of boxing boots (look 12) to rings worn across all eight fingers (look 19) there was something for every kind of dresser. The star of the show, however, has to be the slouchy trench that floats with so much charm (look 33) while the white blazer with structured shoulders, a nipped-in waist and a silhouette so divine, that it instantly upgrades any wardrobe with ease (look 62)
1 / 12
Look 2
2 / 12
Look 12
3 / 12
Look 19
4 / 12
Look 21
5 / 12
Look 29
6 / 12
Look 31
7 / 12
Look 33
8 / 12
Look 34
9 / 12
Look 41
10 / 12
Look 48
11 / 12
Look 62
12 / 12
