Show review in a sentence: An homage to Coco Chanel’s love for reimagining the mundane
Designer: Chanel design studio
Location: Villa d’Este, Lake Como
The vibe: “With a backdrop like this, you know the show is bound to look incredible without much effort,” joked Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion at Chanel. And incredible it was: set within the architectural masterpiece of Villa d’Este, where terraced gardens, elaborate musical fountains, neo-romantic sculptures, and sweeping views of the lake created one of the most enchanting settings, adding yet another chapter to the maison’s tradition of crafting unforgettable experiences for its guests. It was a fitting tribute to the dreamers, lovers, and filmmakers who once roamed these storied grounds in search of inspiration.
The vision: Buzzing pre-show predictions echoed across luncheons and elevator rides, with speculation swirling around the design studio being inspired by the works of Italian film and theatre director Luchino Visconti as well as his brief relationship with Gabrielle Chanel. There was also talk about the possibility of Chanel’s new creative director, Matthieu Blazy, just one month into the role, bringing his signature trompe-l’œil effect to pieces like the classic tweed jacket.
Today’s show, however, had little of that, but instead delved into the intriguing idea of a life spent living in a hotel—where the quirks of social rituals meet the intimacy of private spaces—a theme that wove its way throughout the entire presentation. With Busdriver, Radioinactive, and Daedelus’s toe-tapping bossa beats filling the entire show space; slouchy tweed bathrobes that hinted at a leisurely poolside escape; delicate lace suits perfect for a courtyard soirée; and a lineup of shimmery ensembles befitting a late-night rendezvous, the show offered something for everyone.
What to shop from this collection: The standout piece for me was a sand-colored suede slip, adorned with glistening gemstone baubles tracing its trim—perhaps a subtle nod to Italian ornamentation, evoking the opulence of Byzantine jewellery as a symbol of grandeur and legacy (Look 13). Then came an unforgettable moment: a white bustier paired with ultra-high-waisted tweed shorts (also seen in the teaser), conjuring a silhouette that seemed to be plucked straight from the archives of 1994 (Look 24). And lest we forget, the macramé knit ensemble—ultra-chic yet effortlessly casual—proved its versatility, transitioning seamlessly from day to night with just a change of footwear (Look 40).
Today’s show, despite the occasional missteps in styling and some questionable material choices, still delivered a range of thoughtfully designed basics—pieces that offer just enough novelty to refresh a wardrobe without overwhelming it. As we look ahead to September, with anticipation, I’m confident that Blazy will infuse the collection with the contemporary vigour the maison currently lacks. And by then, we might just get to see his take on the iconic tweed jacket—perhaps reimagined as a buttery-soft leather shirt, meticulously hand-painted in layered strokes to channel that unmistakable Chanel sensibility.
1 / 10
Look 1
2 / 10
Look 6
3 / 10
Look 12
4 / 10
Look 13
5 / 10
Look 19
6 / 10
Look 24
7 / 10
Look 27
8 / 10
Look 31
9 / 10
Look 40
10 / 10
