There’s an old proverb that good things come in threes. That is certainly the case with the Trinity collection of jewellery by Cartier, which celebrates its centennial—that’s 100!—anniversary this year.
To mark the occasion, the Parisian jeweller recently held a series of events in three cities that are especially meaningful to the house: New York, London and Paris, cities that the Cartier family’s third-generation scions planted their flags in over a century ago. First, there was Paris—on the rue de la Paix, specifically, which the house’s founder Louis-François moved into in 1899. In the third generation, the oldest son Louis Cartier held the fort in Paris. Then came London, on Bond Street in 1909, with Jacques Cartier at the helm. And finally, in 1912, the acquisition of the Fifth Avenue mansion in New York City that would become the house’s base in the Americas.
Between the three brothers and setting up in New York and London, this was a presage of Cartier’s rising star and growing international fame. This era of the house’s three-city expansion was also one of its most creatively fruitful. Each branch of the house, though it adhered to principles established in Paris, had a slew of inventive design ideas. New York, for example, was the source of the famed Love collection designed by Aldo Cipullo. And London was a hotbed of horological design, with pieces like the infamous Crash coming out of the city’s workshops. The emblematic panther, meanwhile, came out of Paris when Jeanne Toussaint—nicknamed ‘la panthere’—was made director of high jewellery.
As for the Trinity, that iconic three-looped design was the brainchild of the Paris home branch of Cartier. The writer, painter, filmmaker and poet Jean Cocteau, a close friend of Louis Cartier’s, can partially be said to be the man behind the Trinity. Legend has it that after a dream, he went to Louis Cartier and asked for a custom-designed ring to be made: three interlocking bands. The jeweller responded with platinum, rose gold and yellow gold, each looped band symbolising friendship, fidelity and love.
Though platinum has largely been switched out for 18-carat white gold these days, the symbolism and allure of the Trinity ring remains unchanged. Smooth bands of gold that glide over each other, which move on the finger, and yet sit perfectly comfortably. Even more fascinating are the seamless edges of the bands—a level of finishing that invites one to wonder quite simply how the rings came to be interlocked. It’s a genius piece of creativity that’s been virtually unchanged for a century now.
So from New York, then a plane ride over the Atlantic to London, and finally at the heart of the maison in Paris. Vogue Singapore editor-in-chief Desmond Lim was on hand to experience this ten-day whirlwind journey. Here’s a travel diary of the thrice-charmed affair.
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Cartier Fifth Avenue Mansion, New York City, 653 Fifth Avenue
The third generation of Cartier, led by the brothers Louis, Jacques and Pierre, divided and conquered. Flagships were set up in New York City and London in the early 1900s to establish the jeweller beyond Paris. The Fifth Avenue mansion, replete with mid-century decor, has been the brand’s home base in the Americas since 1912.
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A legendary trade
Cartier acquired its gilded-age mansion home in New York through a monumental exchange. The American socialite Maisie Plant had fallen head over heels for a massive double-strand pearl necklace by the jeweller. So in 1917, the property was traded for the necklace—the latter valued at US$1 million at the time—plus a token US$100.
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Art is in the air
Some of the art pieces in the Cartier mansion were chosen with a mind to add French twists to the otherwise mid-century American interiors. Famed French architect and interior designer Laura Gonzalez, nicknamed the queen of new maximalism, chose and commissioned art that references the brand’s heritage. There’s a lacquered piece by Atelier Midavaine that depicts three panthers with several interpretations: three brothers, cities or temples?
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Deep in the archives
The cushion-shaped 45.52-carat Hope diamond is one of the most storied gemstones in the world. A fancy blue Golconda diamond, the Parisian house bought the stone and mounted it in 1910 as a necklace—a form it has stayed in even now while it’s in the Smithsonian Institution Archives. The story goes that the diamond went from being a cursed stone to the prized possession of American heiress Evalyn Walsh McLean, who was even said to have gotten the stone blessed at a church to rid it of its bad luck.
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Cartier New Bond Street, London, 175/6 New Bond Street
We are being hosted at La Résidence, the private lounge area of Cartier’s New Bond Street flagship in London. A rare moment when this luxurious space, on the second level of the boutique, is opened to the public. This room was formerly a workshop that produced some of the most extraordinary creations with the interest of capturing the hearts of a local clientele.
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The importance of pearls
Prices of pearls used to be published in the daily newspapers on a regular basis, and pearls were seen as an entry point to the society set. This precious material was particularly important for the house given its connections to aristocrats, royalty and important members of high society. Remember, too, that round, lustrous natural pearls were wildly rare and valued before cultivated pearls were invented—which explains how Cartier could trade a mansion for these jewels.
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A moment in time
Cartier’s London branch was adept at seizing the moment. In the 1920s, the house launched a revival of Egyptian designs following the discovery of Pharaoh Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922. In the same decade, it also minted the Tutti Frutti style of carved gemstones thanks to Jacques Cartier’s closeness to Indian royalty.
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Maharajas
Cartier has an illustrious history with India. Jacques Cartier built the bridges when he travelled there in 1911, making clients of maharajas and royalty. But he made a mistake showing women’s jewellery to these royals without realising that, in the Indian royal set, the men are the ones who wear the most jewellery.
That realisation opened the doors to exotic, exquisite and one-of-a-kind designs. The house also minted the idea of circularity before it was a thing. Every piece of jewellery created was recorded from start to finish, right down to who the eventual buyers are. It’s coming back full circle now as Cartier is reacquiring many of these prized possessions for its archives.
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Cartier Rue de la Paix, Paris, 13 Rue de la Paix
After a two-hour train ride from London, we are in Paris for Cartier’s Trinity 100 pop-up. This is the final ‘temple’ of the brand, its flagship and home in Paris at 13 rue de la Paix. The brand’s historic home was unveiled in December 2022 after two years of extensive refurbishments and renovations to its five storeys.
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A century-long journey
The Trinity journey pop-up traces the iconic three-coloured metal bands, which were deemed daring and ahead of their time in 1924. With no gemstones in sight, the designs were well ahead of any minimalist movement and focused on mastering the simple shape and form of three looped rings.
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Today’s Trinity
Now, introducing the latest Trinity designs. The key new pieces have been reimagined as a rounded, squared cushion cut, giving a literal edge to the three circular bands. These are offered in plain solid gold or with pavé diamonds. There are also XL versions imagined as bracelets, and a modular version of the ring where the three bands can be collapsed into one unified whole.
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All about Jean Cocteau
The French artist Jean Cocteau was a friend of Louis Cartier’s, and a man about town who mingled closely with the artistic milieu of Paris in the early 20th century. There’s even a historic salon in Cartier’s flagship on rue de la Paix named after him. And legend has it that Cocteau might have been partly responsible for the Trinity design. It’s said that the artist had a dream involving the rings of Saturn, and went to Louis asking for a design inspired by that. When Cartier unveiled the interlocking Trinity bands, Cocteau adopted the style and famously wore two on his pinkie finger.
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A party for a hundredth
To fête the centenary of the Trinity, Cartier staged a party with a host of its famous friends and ambassadors in attendance. Celebrities such as Jisoo, Paul Mescal and Yara Shahidi—who also front the collection’s latest campaign—were among the many stars present. Entertainment for the night was headlined by Sia, Labrinth and Diplo, as well as the French dance collective La Horde.
A version of this article was originally published in the April ‘Pop’ issue of Vogue Singapore, available online and on newsstands now.
