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Show review in a line: Balenciaga’s strong and uncompromising debut in Shanghai, China
Designer: Demna Location: Museum of Art, Pudong
The vision: It was only a matter of time before Balenciaga made its runway debut in the electric city of Shanghai. Chinese fashion aficionados have long showed an appreciation for Demna’s vision and the relationship runs deeper than most might realise. Alongside the creative director’s arsenal of generation-defying silhouettes (think: chunky sneakers, razor sharp heels and asymmetrical shirting) comes a legion of fans who have all but reinforced them. In the hub that is China, Demna’s tongue-in-cheek and unrelenting vision has found an even more rule-defying pocket to revel in.
The vibe: Marking Demna’s first show in Asia, the brand’s cruise 2025 show was nothing short of what we have come to expect—unpredictable, unapologetic and uncompromising. Hosted on a rooftop adjacent to the Museum of Art Pudong, showgoers—amongst them Balenciaga favourites such as Michelle Yeoh and Juyeon of The Boyz—were perched under inky black umbrellas as they braved a sudden but rather characteristic thunderstorm. As the rain blanketed the runway, the skyline was lit by buildings brandished with the Balenciaga brand—a theme for the entirety of the occasion as guests were given BB-embossed win win cakes and earlier in the day, were treated to grey xiao long baos in Balenciaga containers at the Nu Xiang Mu Dou restaurant.
What to shop from the collection: Opening to a booming bass track, the collection was a dramatic reiteration of house codes, starting with sky-high platform boots (measuring 18 centimetres, to be exact) as modelled by Thai superstar PP Krit Amnuaydechkorn. Debunking the disappearance of chunky footwear, the shoes punctuated the line-up’s severity. Our guess? These towering platforms are going to be everywhere in the months to come, bringing with it a leather revival for the books. Though the shoes themselves can seem accosting, a subdued and casual hoodie-cargo combination should do the trick in easing the statement accessory for everyday. Demna also reiterated his mettle as a considered outerwear designer with a slew of coats, trenches and blazers, oversized to perfection. On the womenswear front was a softer approach of silk blouses and leather A-line skirts, a hint at the often timeline defying approach of Balenciaga’s shows. And though the silk dress made its return, several details were key in giving it an undeniably cool stamp of approval—from a white sock and open-toed heel combination to looming larger-than-life bags. Apart from the must-buy pieces of the collection, tying everything together was a masterfully spot on casting of some of China’s rising faces, both young and mature, reflective of the boundary-defying runways we’ve become accustomed to this past season. Overall this was a powerful showing of the fashion giant that Shanghai truly is, enigmatic and brimming with synergy all at once.
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