There can be confusion around the role of serums in a skincare routine and whether they’re worth investing in, but with the number of solution-based serums out there, there is an option to treat every skin concern. To help you get the best out of your serum and understand which ones actually work for your skin type, we’ve enlisted the help of experts to find the best face serums for every concern.
Meet the experts:
- Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme is a dermatologist, aesthetics practitioner and medical director of the award winning Adonia Medical Clinic.
- Dr Hani Hassan, MBBS, MA is an NHS physician who developed the skincare brand Hue with creative director and co founder Mona Haidar.
What does face serum actually do for your skin?
“Face serum is usually a concentrated formula that delivers active ingredients to the skin, providing targeted benefits such as hydration, brightening, and firming,” Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme explains. “The active ingredients in a serum can help address specific skin concerns, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation and redness. Serums are often formulated to encourage more potency of the active to the skin compared to moisturisers.”
Are serums really necessary?
Dr Hani says serums are a necessary skincare step for anyone looking to radically improve the appearance or texture of their skin. “They’re highly concentrated emulsions that are significantly more biologically active than creams, which is why they are used to deliver noticeable results in skincare.” But how do they work to garner different results than products already in your routine? “They are often packed with very small molecules,” Dr Hani adds, going on to explain that these help the serum quickly penetrate further into the skin to target deep-set skin concerns.
In what order should you apply face serums?
According to Dr Ifeoma, the best way to use a face serum is to “apply it after cleansing and toning, and before moisturising. This will allow the serum to penetrate deeply into the skin and deliver the active ingredients to where they are needed most. You can use a serum in the morning and at night, depending on your skin’s needs.” If you’re layering more than one serum, start with the thinnest consistency, let it absorb for a few seconds and then gradually progress on to your thickest formula.
The key to using serums? Keeping a consistent routine and paying close attention to how your skin responds. Below you’ll find an expert’s guide to the best new serums for all skin concerns.
Best face serums for dark spots & hyperpigmentation
“As hyperpigmentation is often chronic and recurrent, it is essential to use serums that combine multiple actives to target multiple pathways or use multiple mechanisms to address hyperpigmentation.” says Dr Hani. “A good serum will also include actives that address the causes of the hyperpigmentation itself, such as inflammation or acne.”
Her prescription? Actives such as tyrosinase inhibitors that inhibit excess melanin production – classically alpha arbutin, liquorice root or kojic acid. By inhibiting tyrosinase activity, these can help to reduce the overproduction of melanin, leading to a decrease in hyperpigmentation and an improvement in overall skin tone and brightness. Also worth looking for are exfoliating actives like azelaic acid, mandelic acid, lactic acid, and other AHAs, which she tells us “increase exfoliation of the skin to remove existing hyperpigmented cells.” And they have an additive effect: ”By combining multiple active ingredients, you can target hyperpigmentation at all stages of the melanin production process, resulting in faster and more comprehensive results,” Dr Hani confirms.
Best face serums for dry skin
“The La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Serum is formulated with hyaluronic acid and vitamin B5 to help plump and hydrate the skin, while also reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” says Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme. “The La Mer The Concentrate contains Magnesium and calcium: These minerals help to promote healthy skin function, improve the skin’s elasticity, and boost collagen production.”
Dry skin will benefit from the hydrating and replenishing hyaluronic acid in Medik8’s Hydr8 B5 Intense and thirsty complexions are left dewy thanks to the multi-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid in the Tropic Rainforest Dew.
Best multi active face serums for several skin concerns
Best face serums for oily skin
“The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% Serum contains niacinamide and zinc to regulate sebum production and improve the appearance of enlarged pores,” says Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme.
Oily skin will benefit the most from hydrating serums like the Aesop Lucent Facial Concentrate, that have fast-absorbing formulas with a smooth and matte finish.
Best face serums for combination/normal skin
“The Vichy Mineral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Serum contains hyaluronic acid and Vichy’s mineralising thermal water to hydrate and plump the skin, while also strengthening the skin’s barrier function,” shares Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme.
Normal and combination skin will benefit from the high levels of HA4 and Polyglutamic Acid in the FaceGym Hydro-Bound Daily Serum, while the snow mushroom – “nature’s sponge” – in the Botanics Pure Botanicals Snow Mushroom Concentrated Serum gives skin lightweight and non-greasy hydration.
Best face serum for acne-prone skin
“The Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster is a lightweight serum that combines azelaic acid, salicylic acid, and niacinamide to improve skin texture, reduce redness, and unclog pores,” says Dr Ejikeme. “This serum is also formulated with soothing ingredients like liquorice root extract and allantoin to calm and hydrate the skin.”
Acne-prone skin will also benefit from sebum production regulating and skin texture-improving serums like the Simple Booster Serum 10% Niacinamide (Vitamin B3).
Best face serum for mature skin
“The Resveratrol from Skinceuticals Resveratrol B E combines a maximised concentration of 1 per cent pure, stable resveratrol, synergistically enhanced with 0.5 per cent baicalin and 1 per cent pure vitamin E (alpha tocopherol) for optimized anti-aging antioxidant performance,” says Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme. “This antioxidant cocktail neutralises free radicals, supports skin’s natural antioxidant defences, and reveals visible radiance and firmness.”
Mature skin will benefit from the glow-giving super strength of 30 per cent vitamin C in the Trinny London Boost Up Awaken Serum, while the 1 per cent Granactive retinoid in the Pacifica Wake Up Beautiful Retinoid Serum helps to tackle fine lines, even skin tone and boost skin’s elasticity.
This article was originally published on British Vogue.
