When it comes to the latest skincare make-up hybrids in the market, Miley Cyrus—and our favourite beauty brands—said it best: it is the best of both worlds. Or, at least, that is the goal in mind with the launch of products such as serum foundations, lip and cheek balms, as well as complexion drops. Gone are the days of a fifteen-step skincare regimen followed by an equally elaborate make-up routine. With protective, skin-first ingredients weaved into their formulations, multi-function skincare make-up products are promising a routine as minimal as the clean girl look. These hybrid heroes seem to wield the power to diminish excessive consumption while adding convenience to a beauty buff’s life, and to test that claim, the team at Vogue Singapore has delved into a compound of two familiar staples: SPF-infused foundation.
The sun is no stranger to us in these tropical parts, so protecting your skin while getting your glam with an SPF-infused foundation appears to be a pretty straightforward option. That is, until you discover that SPF only blocks out sunburn-causing UVB rays. Dr. Shauna Tan from The Covette Clinic warns: “It is strongly advised against using SPF-infused foundations to replace sunscreen, as they do not ensure adequate protection against UVA rays which accelerate the signs of ageing through sun damage.”
To that end, we’ve probed Dr. Tan for more on the limitations of SPF-infused foundations, how to beneficially incorporate them according to skin type, and the precautions to take when shopping for an appropriate skin-shielding product. The facts, below.
@lil_xxtra The TRUTH about SPF FOUNDATION #beauty #skincare #makeuptips #yasclean ♬ Stuck In The Middle – Tai Verdes
Does a foundation infused with SPF or other sunscreen ingredients provide adequate protection?
No, for several reasons. Firstly, SPF ratings are based on a large application of 2mg/cm2 of sunscreen. That translates to 1 shot glass’s worth of product needed to achieve the actual protection stated, which is an unrealistically heavy application of foundation. A traditional sunscreen is still needed for sufficient protection. Secondly, SPF only indicates how well a product blocks UVB rays. For UVA protection, look for products also labelled with “PA” followed by plus signs, which stands for “Protection Grade of UVA”. Likewise, foundations with sunscreen ingredients cannot be used to substitute actual sunscreens, as they may not meet the strict criteria defined by health authorities and additional testing is required to prove their efficacy.
How should SPF-infused foundation be incorporated into our routines at all?
Any additional protection against the sun is always welcome. SPF-infused foundations contain iron oxide, a huge plus point as it increases absorption of the product and protection against visible light and UVA radiation. Simply layer SPF-infused foundation above your sunscreen after letting it settle for 1 to 2 minutes.
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Could you recommend any sunscreens that work well under make-up?
I personally recommend these brands to all my patients. For a more glowy and dewy finish, Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics (SPF50+, PA++++) and Roundlab Birch Moisturizing Sunscreen (SPF 50+, PA++++). For a more matte finish, Supergoop! Unseen Sunscreen SPF 40.
How do we re-apply sunscreen when wearing make-up?
Re-applying sunscreen every 2 to 3 hours is essential, as sun exposure breaks down its ingredients and sweat deactivates chemical filters as well. There are different methods of re-application when wearing makeup. Firstly, consider the SuperGoop! (Re)setting 100% Mineral Powder SPF 35. The loose powder consistency is perfect for a matte finish. Apply an even layer throughout. For a dewy finish, use a sunscreen stick that doesn’t shift make-up. One good option is Abib’s Quick sunstick Protection bar. Each area should be covered by at least 3 swipes, and clean the stick regularly for hygiene’s sake. Other alternatives include blending a tinted sunscreen in with a beauty blender, or—my personal favourite—a sunscreen spray, which allows hands-free application and a glowy, glazed finish with just 2 to 3 spritzes.
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What labels should one look out for when shopping for sunscreen?
Products should have ratings of at least SPF 30 and PA+++ for protection against UVB and UVA rays respectively. Alternatively, “broad spectrum” means both UVB and UVA protection is covered. Blue Light Protection labels suggest that the product contains filters protecting against High Energy Visible Light (HEVL).
Considering our different skin types, what should we look out for when shopping for an SPF-infused foundation?
Aside from the labels mentioned earlier, choose a product with the right texture and consistency. A thicker foundation that’s applied in less volume and requires more blending, results in significantly less sun protection. The same goes for foundations not shade-matched to your skin.
Skin type is another big consideration. For dry skin, look to products with hyaluronic acid or sodium hyaluronate. I personally love ILIA’s Super Serum Skin Tint (SPF 40), the MAC Cosmetics Lightful C³ Naturally Flawless Foundation with Light-Diffusing Complex SPF 35/PA++ and Kosas DreamBeam Comfy Smooth Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 40 for a more dewy finish. For acne-prone skin, look for non-comedogenic products and avoid coconut or mineral oil, cocoa butter and beeswax. I recommend the IT Cosmetics Your Skin But Better™ CC+™ Cream SPF 50.