A time to restore and reset. A moment to catch one’s breath and reimagine how the future is going to be. Some fashion designers went back to their roots, drawing inspirations from their hometown, while others like Nicolas Ghesquiére went back to their design ethos—the very essence of what makes him one of the most influential creators of our time.
The entire collection was shot in the design studio at the Louis Vuitton headquarters, where a random chair or a copier stood alongside models who were wearing barely any make-up matched by that equally casual out-of-bed hair. Sailor stripes form the overarching backbone of the collection, while Ghesquiére’s signature modern utilitarian cargo pants and multi-pocket oversized parkas lend that ’80s proportion when worn with a galaxy-printed sweatshirt or over carrot-cut trouser and leggings.
His love for the rococo period now comes as a styling detail of a frilly detachable collar casually slung around the neck and the effect is quite fantastical—it’s amazing how a little detail can transform an otherwise casual piece.
Ghesquiére has also introduced a series of playing card symbols as graphic motifs throughout the collection. Inspired by his favourite card game of Tarot, they provide a pop of colour to the collection while the abstract lines add a decorative detail to the maxi dresses and the easy shifts. Accessories, too, have the motifs running across the signature bags like the Speedy and the Dauphine, but the clear standout for me are the stacked lug boots in that lustworthy canary yellow. Because the vision of Ghesquiére has always been rather gender-neutral in most of his execution, he has secretly earned himself a handful of male customers on the side and I’m guessing these boots are going to be quite a hit with the men.
With an unusual quieter showcase this time round, one can’t help but wonder what’s in store for the spring/summer 2021 show happening in the next few weeks given that COVID-19 measures are still in place. I suppose it will be like playing a game of cards—life in itself is always about taking measured risks and in this difficult time, it would be interesting to see how far designers can push the boundaries.
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