Yohji Yamamoto has had a long love affair with Paris, launching his label in the birthplace of haute couture almost 40 years ago. Making his mark alongside his Japanese peers in the 1980s—the likes of Rei Kawakubo, Issey Miyake, Kenzo Takada, Junya Watanabe—this season saw Yamamoto’s unwavering allegiance to traditional runway showcases at Paris Fashion Week, no less.
The usual suspects of any Yamamoto offering were present: his signature mid-shin trouser length; spliced and diced tailoring that saw waistbands rising to the chest; and as with every collection, a copious use of black. On the more avant-garde side of the spectrum, exposed crinolines and shredded dresses resembled the crinkled remnants of burnt paper. At times respite came in the form of asymmetric white ensembles, refreshingly styled with simple sneakers.
This year has been a hefty year of collaborations for Yamamoto: his second collaboration with Hublot; a streetwear capsule with Supreme; and perhaps the most unexpected of them all, an automobile with Lamborghini. Yet even with these buzzy projects afoot, Yamamoto’s collection for spring/summer 2021 remained true to his brand of unencumbered craft. Decades on, the label, unlike most powerhouse heritage brands, has yet to yield to fashion’s relentless cycle of trends and novelty.