Before steel stole the show, gold watches reigned supreme. It was only in the 1970s that sporty steel timepieces began a revolution in the world of fine watchmaking and set new aesthetic standards. The hardy, robust metal has been the most prevalent material for decades since, and given these objects an edge of utility in addition to luxury. But trends, as they say, come and go. And at the moment, it’s looking like gold—lustrous yet durable in its own right—is coming back into favour.
Consider, for instance, that when Bulgari unveiled its timepieces for the year at LVMH Watch Week in Miami, it named the theme of its showcase ‘Time is Gold’. The Italian brand meant it both literally and figuratively: touches of goldsmithing added to its collections, but also a play on the emotional resonance of the precious metal.
The latter quality is perhaps the more important one when it comes to explaining the material’s enduring and returning appeal. There’s a physical presence, for starters. Gold is a relatively heavy metal, and when worn on the wrist its heft makes itself reassuringly known to the wearer. And it has an intrinsic value and preciousness that make it timeless. We still think, to this day, of gold watches as symbols of power and success.
The draw towards gold hasn’t happened in a vacuum, of course. Take a look at the multitude of fashion designers and runway collections that are leaning into the mood and style of the 1970s and ’80s. It’s happening in the field of jewellery too, with designers honing in on crafts that centre around the metal. And so it is with timepieces, as evidenced by a host of recent releases that herald a trend well worth its weight.
Jewellery in its own right
Back in 1979, Piaget sharply took the temperature of the times and launched a watch that merged luxury and sport. The Polo was the first by the brand to be christened with a name instead of a reference number, and was designed to pull double duties of high style and casual sportiness both on and off the fields of the society sport that it’s named after.
On the occasion of the brand’s 150th anniversary this year, it has looked back to this pivotal moment and created the Polo 1979—a virtual reissue of the original model. Slight differences account for contemporary demands, such as a larger 38mm case and an ultra-thin in-house automatic movement instead of quartz.
But it is otherwise faithful to its deliciously retro roots. It’s crafted fully in 18-carat gold, with brushed blocks punctuated by polished gadroon links. The Polo was designed to look like it’s shaped from a solid piece of gold, and the gadroon motif continues throughout the watch from bracelet through the case and dial.
At Chaumet, the Joséphine Aigrette collection embodies its approach to jewellery watches. The key details are a case shaped like a pear diamond, the house’s signature cut; and a strap with one end that terminates in an inverted ‘V’, akin to the wing shape of egrets in flight and the house’s famous tiaras.
Typically offered with a satin or leather strap, the brand has now introduced the option of metal bracelets. The rose gold is particularly charming, with each link featuring V-shaped facets that enhance the slender, elegant profile of the watch.
For Bulgari, gold appears to be a focus for the year. In addition to its newest collection of fine jewellery, Cabochon, the Roman house is also lending a golden touch to its timepieces. The Bulgari Bulgari line—conceived by legendary watch designer Gerald Genta and inspired by the inscriptions on ancient Roman coins—is getting an update this year with new models that closely reference the original from 1977.
The most striking is the 38mm, which contrasts yellow gold on the case, bezel, hands and indices against simple opaline dials, paired with alligator leather straps. Inside, the brand has taken the opportunity to equip the revamped Bulgari Bulgari models with in-house automatic movements.
Sporty steel classics turned precious
A sense of timelessness is what you’ll find at a watchmaking house like Patek Philippe, where tradition almost dictates a dominant use of precious materials. Of the 158 models the brand listed last month, just 28 are made with steel cases.
Interestingly enough, one of the latest gold models is a Nautilus—Patek Philippe’s porthole-inspired, steel-cased hat in the ring from the 1970s. There’s a new ladies’ Nautilus, the quartz-powered reference 7010/1R-013, in rose gold with a diamond-set bezel and a purple lacquered dial engraved with the collection’s signature wave pattern. At 32mm, it is the daintiest model of the Nautilus line but gleamingly rich with presence.
There’s a parallel at Vacheron Constantin. One of its freshest novelties this year is a gold watch from the mostly steel Overseas collection. Cased fully in pink gold, this new 33mm Overseas Quartz juxtaposes its sumptuous materiality with details that give it a sense of lightness.
The six-sided bezel is set with diamonds; and the dial is lacquered blue, inspired by the washed shades of denim, with a translucent effect. In the spirit of stylish ease, the watch also comes equipped with interchangeable leather and rubber straps on top of the gold bracelet.
Another brand that has specially revived use of this precious metal—yellow gold, in particular—is Breitling, through its new collaboration with fashion designer Victoria Beckham. This collection marks the return of yellow gold to Breitling’s offering for the first time in over a decade since the last reference was discontinued in 2011.
The model of choice is the Chronomat Automatic 36, which is Breitling’s refined interpretation of an aviator watch. “Colour is very much part of my brand DNA,” comments Beckham of the dial shades on offer—peppermint, midnight blue and sand are available on the gold models, each limited to 100 pieces globally—that draw from her spring/summer 2024 collection’s palette.
“They feel radiant and modern whilst retaining a real timelessness,” she adds. The choice of yellow gold says something too about the freshness of this material and how it is, thanks to Beckham, quite literally in fashion now.
The March ‘Dualism’ issue of Vogue Singapore is available for sale online and in-stores.
