Paul Andrew’s exploration of an alternate sci-fi universe at Salvatore Ferragamo’s autumn/winter 2021 collection left us hungry for more—but we might not be getting it. To cut to the chase: Paul Andrew has confirmed his resignation as the creative director of Salvatore Ferragamo, with his last season scheduled for pre-spring 2022 in early May.
The news comes amid an internal shakeup at the family-run Ferragamo, as chairman Ferruccio Ferragamo will be replaced by his brother Leonardo. Giovanna, daughter of founder Salvatore Ferragamo, is also leaving her position after being involved with the brand since the age of 15. Now the question remains: who will replace Paul Andrew as the creative director? As Andrew steps down from the house, read on for our top three contenders for the coveted role.
Simon Porte Jacquemus
With 3.3 million followers, Instagram’s favourite designer needs no introduction. A favourite amongst celebrities and mortals alike, Jacquemus has found a way into everyone’s hearts (and maybe even created a whole aesthetic while at it). Using magnificent locations and set design, he has transported showgoers (physically and online) into his own brand of covetable ease and elegance—all finished off with French insouciance.
His clean-cut tailoring and love for simple, classic details make him a strong contender for the role. Having won the LVMH prize in 2015, he clearly has the ability to bring a modern chic interpretation of age-old sophistication. With a very trendy and influential clientele, Jacquemus has powerful social media reach with the potential to perhaps bring in a different type of consumer.
Guillaume Meilland brought in a nonchalant French reinterpretation of Italian codes when he became the men’s ready-to-wear director for the house in 2016. He played with new tailoring proportions that produced fresh silhouettes while staying true to the elegance and legacy of the house.
Ferragamo has a strong history of picking out its creative directors from within the company: Paul Andrew started off as the women’s footwear director, going on to women’s ready-to-wear director and lastly the creative director in 2019. Being one of the few big luxury brands that are still independently owned (that is, not part of a conglomerate such as LVMH), it makes total sense for Ferragamo to appoint someone who has already proved himself in line with the vision and the codes of the house. Meilland is also no stranger to women’s ready-to-wear having worked alongside Andrew for the past few seasons.
Jasmin Larian Hekmat
Jasmin Larian Hekmat is the creative brain behind Cult Gaia, a brand that became an Instagram sensation with the launch of the Ark bag; a structured woven number that found its way onto the arm of every fashion It-girl. This comes as no surprise, with her ingenious use of simple lines and shapes throughout her designs.
With a strong focus on footwear and handbags, Hekmat uses clean cuts and a neutral palette, with a twist of her own expression. Her unique exploration of materials, such as a bag made out of a dreamy pink rose quartz, compliments Ferragamo’s high level of craftsmanship and wealth of resources to produce conceptual products. Ferragamo started off as a footwear brand and has still kept this as a strong focus—Hekmat’s contemporary vision on footwear might be able to build on the innovative reinterpretations by Andrew.