Show review in a sentence: Haider Ackermann sharpens Tom Ford’s signature seduction into something sharp, sleek and quietly dangerous.
Designer: Haider Ackermann
Location: Place Vendôme
There was a hard kind of sexiness in the simplicity. If there was one collection that had me on the edge of my seat this season, it was Tom Ford. In-your-face sex appeal was the order of the day, the air in the room thick with anticipation as Haider Ackermann presented his third collection for the house since his debut in fall/winter 2025.
The show space was intimate: a blank white canvas set in the heart of Place Vendôme. Against that starkness, the clothes felt even more charged. What lingered in my mind was American Psycho, that hyper-controlled world of late-1980s power dressing where surfaces conceal something darker beneath. Ackermann leaned into that tension with razor-sharp tailoring, glossy leather skirts, sheer button-downs and transparent PVC outerwear that gleamed under the lights.
The casting was electric. Kirsten McMenamy appeared among a line-up of models styled to look eerily alike, emerging in trios and walking in formation. Two women appeared in glassy see-through PVC coats before a trio of men followed in pale pink business shirts, the palette flickering between blush, powder blue and stark black. Older men in suits, younger ones in black shirts and jeans with slicked-back hair. The whole thing had this unsettling polish that had you fixed on the runway.
Even the staging heightened the tension. Instead of the typical runway stride, the models drifted slowly, scanning the audience and locking eyes. It’s the kind of trick that can feel gimmicky, but here it worked. The room felt charged.
And then there were the pieces I immediately wanted to take home: the killer Tom Ford stilettos worn with razor-thin heels, slick leather pencil skirts, slashed glossy jackets, dangerously low-cut trousers held together with a slim leather strap and that blinding white opening dress that felt almost surgical in its purity. But the item I wanted most? The jeans. Dark, sharp, worn with nothing but a black shirt and attitude. That’s how disarmingly simple the collection was: sex appeal, distilled to its sharpest form.
1 / 10
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3 / 10
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4 / 10
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5 / 10
Look 11
6 / 10
Look 17
7 / 10
Look 18
8 / 10
Look 19
9 / 10
Look 20
10 / 10
