Tod’s SS25
Show review in a line: A reaffirming nod to the beauty and modernity of craftsmanship
Designer: Matteo Tamburini
Location: Fonderia Carlo Macchi
The vision: There have been a variety of brand collections inspired by the charm of the Mediterranean coast for spring/summer 2025. Given its out-of-this-world splendour, it is no surprise that it is on the drawing board, especially given the energy of effortlessness that permeates throughout the season. At Tod’s, this was all about melding the traditional and the luxurious.
The vibe: Artisanal expertise continues to centre the brand. Walking into the show space, guests are greeted by the familiar sight of various artisans working on intricate goods. Two larger-than-life hands anchored the set, with concrete ribbons flying out of them—grandiose and eye-catching. Juxtaposing this was a buzz of excitement for Jungwoo of NCT.
What to shop from the collection: It was a consistent showing of beautiful ready-to-wear, with the star of the line-up being its variation of dresses, trench coats and another season favourite: windbreakers in resin-coated cotton and nappa leather. My personal favourite was the maxi dress modelled by Mariacarla Boscono, which featured an attached drape doubling up as a choker. Joined by the likes of Naomi Campbell and Lina Zhang, Tod’s reinforced the allure of material, sending out an array of pieces in supple leather. The brand’s craftsmanship never fails to shine in the accessories department, and this season was no exception—with a covetable selection of shoulder bags, clutches, and multi-pochettes.
Gucci SS25
Show review in a line: Gucci’s decisive and contemporary take on summer fare
Designer: Sabato de Sarno
Location: Triennale Milano
The vision: Sabato de Sarno is a designer who loves and is inspired by people–it’s evident in not only the way he interacts with longtime customers and lovers of the maison (the creative director hosted a special meet and greet backstage, post-show) but in the kinds of clothes he designs. Now almost two years at the helm of Gucci and he is slowly but surely finding a new voice for the quintessential Gucci woman. While the directiveness of the brand’s designs have changed, what shines is a strong sense of wearability.
The vibe: It was a star-studded afternoon at the Triennale Milano with fans waiting for the arrival of BTS’ Jin. The superstar was joined by the likes of Hanni, Dakota Johnson and Jessica Chastain, all decked out in the maison’s hottest offerings. Guests walked into a fitting set for the show–a sunset-drenched white space which illuminated the reds, oranges and yellow panels surrounding the set, through which tinted sunlight trickled in.
What to shop from the collection: There was a lot to love about this collection. For one, de Sarno has discovered the ability to design showstopping pieces without the need for overt grandeur. This came in the form of my personal favourite which was a selection of four trench coats. Only upon the resee, we realised they were four completely different designs, a testament to the designer’s expertise at subtlety. It also came in the form of flat Horsebit boots and midi dresses. New additions were clear heels and tasselled pieces, with a mirrored jacket and skirt co-ord stealing the show.
Versace SS25
Show review in a line: An apologetically sexy blast to the mid-2000’s
Designer: Donatella Versace
Location: Piazza Castello
The vision: Donatella Versace has perfected the art of sexiness. The Italian brand’s spring/summer 2025 show was hosted at the picturesque Piazza Castello, fittingly at night and to an audience of long-time customers. So, what did allure look like on the creative director’s mood board tonight during the co-ed show?
The vibe: It’s always a joy to see the essence of the Versace brand come to life through the people that attend their shows. There were a variety of interpretations of what the Versace woman or man might look like today, and the beauty of it all was that a sense of bold, unapologetic confidence emanated from just about everyone—whether it was a guest in an exquisitely cut black evening gown with Medusa earrings or another in an understated co-ord with kitten heels.
What to shop from the collection: A mid-2000s projection of glittering disco ball bustiers, slinky skirts, jacket and turtleneck combinations, and—as we’ve seen this season—lots and lots of sheer came down the runway. I loved the sheer skirts paired with heavier materials and think they would make a beautiful mainstay in a wardrobe. The show’s beauty direction was one to note as well. The pin-straight hair of the noughties made a refreshing resurgence on both men and women, bringing to mind an effortful, image-first aesthetic the fashion industry seems to have retired in recent years. But, as always, trends are cyclical, and who better than Versace to kickstart a look?
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Gucci SS25, Look 1
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Versace SS25, Look 1
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