As far as cult shoes go, Martin Margiela’s cult Tabi goes unrivalled. When the first pair of the split toe silhouette opened his debut collection in ‘88, it wasn’t just a reinvention of a 15th-century Japanese worker’s shoe; it was also inspired by the square shoe styles made by Japanese designers like Rei Kawakubo herself. To conclude that very runway show? The models donned the house’s emblematic white coats, dipped their shoes in red paint and then walked the runway—leaving the footprint of a shoe silhouette that was strange and unfamiliar at the time. Margiela danced with his odds, unravelling the fashion playbook as he went. The Tabi was iconic not just for the split look, but the geometric, square-toe as well.
Throughout the ‘80s and ‘90s, the square-toe would continue to return in its quiet, subtle ways. Over time, it established codes of its own; its blunt, squarish tip could be paired to a narrower body, and it could be adapted for a slew of shoe silhouettes, from knee-high boots to open-toe mules. The past two seasons alone were proof of its staying power; a sea of styles parading down the spring and fall runways, adding an inevitable touch of chicness to its wearer.
Crafty, weaved options were seen at Bottega Veneta. Sculptural, painterly heels were Sarah Burton’s weapon of choice at her debut show for Givenchy. At Ann Demeulemeester, ballet-inspired flats came with a broad base instead of its usual pointy shape. And for a classic knee-high? Miu Miu delivered the goods, albeit rounding out its blunt edges slightly. Of course, A-listers high and low have been seen in all manners of a square-toe shoe. Inside Daisy Edgar-Jones’s press tour run for On Swift Horses lay a gem: a pair of red Mary Jane ballet flats that gave her look its well-deserved gold star.
In a dilemma as to what to snag from the myriad of square-toe silhouettes out there? The truth is, there’s always a good old Tabi to fall back on. But if you’re ready to expand your wardrobe repertoire, then here are all the square-toe shoe alternatives that are enjoying their moment in the sun.
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Knee-high boots: Miu Miu
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Loafers business: Pia Wurtzbach
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Square-toe mules: Martine Rose
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Minimal sandals: Chloé
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Mary Jane ballet flats: Daisy Edgar-Jones
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Sculptural heels: Givenchy
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