“Sake is such a magical beverage. When enjoyed absent-mindedly, it slips into the background calling no attention to itself. Yet, when you pay attention to it, a diverse symphony of flavours and aromas unfurls,” begins Gerard Alexis Lee, chef-owner and sake sommelier of Omu Nomu, a modern izakaya with a focus on craft sake. “Compared to wines and spirits, sake has its own unique levity, clarity and refinement. A true friend of the dining table, it does not conflict with any food in our continually evolving world of gastronomy. Rather, it presents its delicate layered complexities so approachably—with soft minerality wrapped around textures of snowmelt, and gentle acidity on the midpalate—a subtle invitation to the drinker to explore its depth and richness.”
In recent years, the sake scene in Singapore has steadily grown, so much so that our local sake market ranked sixth in the world by sales volume in 2023, according to the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association, despite the country’s small size. “In the last decade, not only has the demand for sake increased, but as consumers also become more aware and educated, there has also been increased demand for specific styles of sake,” Lee explains. The most commonly requested, he shares, is namazake—or unpasteurised sake—with the kimoto, yamahai and bodaimoto styles also on the rise.
For beginners looking to start venturing into the world of this traditional Japanese beverage, Lee’s advice is to keep an open mind. “For sake, the locality of a label’s production and the various rice varietals have less of an effect in indicating the profile of a sake, compared to wines where information about terroir, geography and grape varietal evidently support an informed choice.” The best way to discover what you like is, therefore, to be receptive to exploration.
Lee’s next tip? To treat sake the same way you would fresh milk. It might sound odd, but he elaborates: “If you understand how to handle fresh milk, you’ll understand how to care for your sake. When buying sake, choose a shop that stores it properly in the fridge, check the bottle to find the most recent bottling date—preferably under six months old—and drink it as soon as it is purchased while it is still fresh. These simple acts can greatly enhance your experience.”
Whether you’re new to the sake scene or a longtime enthusiast, there’s something exciting to discover every time. “There’s always momentum in the sake world, with news to look forward to and new tastes in sake to be had,” he concludes. “There’s just no way to have experienced it all.”
Sake pairings
Lee curates four sake pairings with everyday local dishes.
CEL-24 sakes with hawker-grilled seafood
“CEL-24 sakes have an extremely tropical aroma. Notes of pineapple, mango, passionfruit—you name it, it’s probably there. Keep it nice and chilled, and enjoy with dishes from your favourite local grilled seafood hawker. Especially delicious if you have it with sambal stingray with lots of squeezed calamansi.”
Matsui’s Kagura Shichiyo Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu with white carrot cake
“The fresh, crisp minerality of this sake brings out the salt and wok hei of white carrot cake, while subtle fruits work in combination to lighten the palate and spice up the chilli. That touch of creaminess on the midpalate of this particular sake also works beautifully to accentuate the savoury, soft texture of the dish.”
Happy Taro’s Something Happy Fresh Herb Tea Doburoku with lamb dum biryani
“Sweet, creamy, fresh and minty, this doburoku works almost like a raita in combination with the groundwork of fragrant spices that make up a biryani. It calms the spices with fresh yoghurt-y notes while uplifting the lamb perfectly.”
Mukai’s Ine Mankai with Peranakan cuisine
“The earthy tones and subtle spices of Peranakan cuisine are extremely compatible with black rice sakes. In fact, one key feature of black rice sakes is the all-too-familiar pulut hitam rice aroma that can be found towards the finish of the sake, so you can guess what’s good for dessert after that plate of ayam buah keluak.”
Sake hopping guide
1 / 5
Omu Nomu
Modern izakaya Omu Nomu is the only place in Singapore where you’ll find a sake list that rotates by the week—and one of the only sake bars in Singapore to serve doburoku and craft sakes—which makes it the perfect spot to discover something new. Menus are carefully curated through the lens of sake compatibility, and almost every sake can be bought by glass instead of bottle.
2 / 5
Shukuu Izakaya
This might be as close as it gets to a traditional izakaya experience in Singapore. Shukuu Izakaya is simple and nofrills, but it has earned itself the reputation of being one of the best sake bars in Singapore through painstaking attention paid to every detail. Strike up a conversation with the in-house sommeliers, who are always eager to share their expertise.
3 / 5
The Bar Kakure
An intimate 10-seater hidden in a colonial black-and-white bungalow, you’ll find a curated list of sakes and sake cocktails at The Bar Kakure. While sake is traditionally enjoyed on its own to allow the drinker to appreciate its unique complexity, head bartender Kazuhiro Chii specially sought permission from breweries to use them in his libations. Try Ikazuchi, a sake shooter where guests are invited to bite into cucumber topped with caviar, chew slowly to savour the texture and umami flavour, and then follow with a clean shot of Katsuyama Junmai Ginjo.
4 / 5
Suiraku
Sake is typically served chilled, but for those who prefer to savour their drink warm, Suiraku is the place to go. Among the restaurant’s sommelier team are some of the only okanban—or warm sake specialists—in Singapore. Plus, indulge in an incredible selection of Japanese cuisine to match, served both a la carte and as part of a kaiseki menu.
5 / 5
Thursday suppers at Sage by Yasunori Doi
Thursday nights see Sake Street director and head sommelier Hansel Tan collaborating with French-Japanese restaurant Sage for a weekly supper service. Accompanying chef Yasunori Doi’s delectable creations is Tan’s curation of decidedly modern sakes. It’s a laid-back, intimate affair for those in the know.
