It’s that time of the year again. The womenswear fall/winter 2022 season has kicked off as of February 11 and the runways are (mostly) back in full swing. Setting the stage on day one of New York fashion week was dynamic design duo Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough of womenswear label, Proenza Schouler. Dubbed one of the city’s sartorial staples since its conception in 2002, the brand’s showing at the Brant Foundation—a private gallery space—was a reminder why.
As the wave of Omicron tapers, the Proenza Schouler fall/winter 2022 show was one of balance; at least, in the way we have come to understand the word in an on-and-off-again post-pandemic world. How do you portray both ease and structure in a time where the lines between both are inherently blurred? The answer, it seems, lies in the Parson alumnus’ mastery of knit. Modeled by Bella Hadid, a highlight of the label’s fall/winter 2022 showing was a cinched, black turtleneck top which flared out at the bottom. Hadid’s look was topped off with oversized accroutements—from a pair of trousers to a carry-all bag—and a statement gold brooch.

This carved silhouette was apparent throughout the collection in various iterations: strapless dresses atop billowing trousers, full coats with accompanying wraparounds and blouses paired with voluminous skirts. The trend was offset by something far more unexpected, too. Breaking up the palette of blacks, olive greens and browns were bold hints of purple, orange, yellow and blue, followed by the house’s take on animal prints. While the likes of cheetah and leopard saw a quiet reawakening on the spring/summer 2022 runways, Proenza Schouler’s take was as chic as they come. The leopard print was given a contemporary treatment awash in red—bold, fresh and an encapsulating nod to the city of lights.

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