Vogue’s best looks from the Prada and Max Mara spring/summer 2024 shows

Max Mara SS24

10-word show review: Utilitarian meets luxury in a collection meant for the effortless chic
Designer: Ian Griffiths
Location:  Rotonda della Besana

The vision: Max Mara’s spring/summer 2024 show was all about the celebration of the indomitable spirit of the feminine. Paying homage to the Women’s Land Army– an all-female unit of nearly 80,000 women who were recruited in Britain to take up farming while the men were away at war, Ian Griffiths’s vision for this collection was reflective of someone who has been at the helm for over 35 years. With an evolving point of reference (in this case the so-called Land Girls), Griffiths’s collection still retains a refined and polished outlook that is steeped in reality–the crux of the Max Mara woman ever since Achille Maramotti founded the brand.

The vibe: Set in a vast and beautiful garden of foliage amidst the baroque excellence of the Rotondo della Besana, the collection reflected an organic opulence that puts emphasis on the nurturing and nourishing nature of the Land Girls’ work. As models graced the catwalk with powerful and confident strides, a gentle strength reverberated and was felt in massive waves throughout the show.

Signature silhouettes: Silhouettes were all about reimagining workwear in luxe renditions. Long work jackets and hot pants were seen throughout the runway in iterations of knit and cotton and a myriad of colours. On top of a palette of camel and tan that is to be expected from a collection inspired by the Land Girls, shades of French workwear blue, pink, black and white can be seen throughout the show. Maxi dresses in sumptuous silks and soft and constructed silhouettes alike were also in abundance–but what stood out immediately was a voluminous camel coat in satin. Then there were the bags. Intentional and well-researched, canvas gardening bags lined with shiny leather were scattered across the various looks along with binocular cases in English bridle leather. If there’s a summer holiday wardrobe you’re curating, then Max Mara’s fare is certainly a tasteful option for contention.

Prada SS24

10-word show review: A subtle yet defining ode to craftsmanship and travel
Designer: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons
Location: Milanese Fondazione Prada building

The vision: There are few shows as hotly anticipated as Prada. For spring/summer 2024, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ collection found a home in a set that was awash in pink. The energy was palpable. On the right, a hurried frenzy surrounding Korean boy band Enhypen. And on the left, a swirling excitement around Sana of girl group, Twice. The event’s star power, though enormous, was the least of its appeal. Amidst the showgoers were stealth fans of the house—collectors, archivists, long time studiers and self-proclaimed fanatics—all present to take in Prada’s messaging for the season. The goal, however, was to let the pieces speak for themselves.

The vibe: First unveiled at the house’s men’s show in June, a thick, clear slim trickled from a partition in the ceiling. Loud, electric music filled the space—a booming introductory call to the summer fare that we should be considering come June 2024. Stoic models marched through the space, directional and unapologetic.

Signature silhouettes: Even though Prada’s ready-to-wear options are wildly popular, there is something to be said about the brand’s accessory rotation. One of the main focal points of the collection was a reinterpreted handbag design originally conceptualised by Miuccia’s grandfather and co-founder of the house, Mario Prada. An avid traveler, Mario fashioned various designs out of materials found on his travels, creating a line of one-of-a-kind creations that he called “oggetti di lusso” which translates to objects of luxury. What proves fascinating is that this ideology applies to all of the collection’s clothing as well. One of the strongest designs came in the form of A-line organza dresses that mimicked the movement of water as their shoulder-tied tassels floated off the models. Tasseled skirts followed suit, directional in their sways. As to where these women were headed? The beauty in it all was not knowing.