Lauded for their collagen-producing properties, the tangible result of peptides can be seen in smoother, firmer, youthful-looking skin. But what exactly are peptides and what can we expect from them?
What are the proven skin benefits of peptides?
“Improved hydration within the skin especially within the stratum corneum (topmost layer of the epidermis), which improves the skin barrier function,” explains Dr Hanjing Lee, consultant plastic surgeon at Argent Plastic Surgery and Acclaro Clinic. Peptides help “activate fibroblasts which then induces an increase in collagen production.” This in turn produces skin that’s smoother, thicker and firmer.
Additionally, studies “assessing the efficacy of peptides have shown reduction depth and length of perioral and periorbital wrinkles,” says Dr Lee on wrinkles around the mouth and eyes. “Some types also show anti-ageing effects. One example is soy proteins which contain phospholipids, essential fatty oils and isoflavones.” They help by reducing oxidative stress on the skin, which then help stimulate new collagen formation. “A 12 week study on 65 women showed that it reduce overall photodamage by improving dull skin, mottled pigmentation, fine wrinkles and overall skin tone,” Dr Lee continues.
She also cites a double blind study on carrier protein Tripeptide-1 in which volunteers exhibited an improvement in skin quality with a reduction in fine lines and coarse wrinkles, improve skin pigmentation and clarity and increase skin thickness and improve skin laxity.
What are the key peptides used in skincare?
“There are four main types of peptides each with their different functions:
- Signal peptide—a common one is Palmitoyl tripeptide-3/5, a synthetic peptide that is believed to play a role in the appearance of skin firmness.
- Carrier peptide—common ones are Tripeptide-1, copper peptides. Copper is a trace mineral which is part of various enzymatic reaction and process in the body. It can help with the repair of collagen and elastin fibres, improve thickness of the skin and elasticity.
- Neurotransmitter inhibiting peptide—look for Argireline, Vialox (pentapeptide-3) and Leuphasyl.
- Enzyme inhibitory peptides—or soybean peptide. It inhibits the breakdown of collagen.
What are their limitations?
“Some types of peptides will need to be used continuously for effect,” warns Dr Lee. Additionally, peptides are not a failsafe against ageing and work best when paired with other topicals. Pair them with:
- Antioxidant based products like vitamin C, vitamin E, and gluthathione which offer a raft of benefits such as reducing inflammation, improving immune function, boosting the synthesis of collagen, reducing the appearance of photodamage, reducing risk of skin disease (psoriasis, allergic dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, acne, vitiligo) as well as skin cancers.
- Retinol (vitamin A based products) which will speed up the regular skin turnover of 28 days to 14 days.
- Sun protection.
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COSRx The 6 Peptide Skin Booster Serum
This watery do-it-all serum is best applied to the skin in layers, quenching parched complexions with the benefits of six peptides including copper tripeptide, which aids in texturisation. Synergistic ingredients of niacinamide, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and NMF (natural moisturising factors) help to also address wrinkles, dullness, enlarged pores, skin laxity and texture.
COSRx The 6 Peptide Skin Booster Serum, $35.20, available at Watson’s
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Paula’s Choice Pro-Collagen Multi-Peptide Booster
Paula’s Choice’s silken textured serum is packed with peptides that target key proteins in the skin, encouraging collagen and elastin production resulting in skin smoothing, firming and plumping benefits in four weeks.
Paula’s Choice Pro-Collagen Multi-Peptide Booster, $88, available at Paula’s Choice
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Lancôme Rénergie H.P.N. 300-Peptide Cream
This new-gen cream for skin smoothing, firming and tightening action comes loaded with 300 peptides, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide. We love it’s comforting but not cloying texture for our climate.
Lancôme Rénergie H.P.N. 300-Peptide Cream, $202, available at Lancôme
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Rationale #1 The Crème
The Crème is packed with skin-identical ceramides, peptides to encourage protein synthesis, and B-group vitamins including folic acid to strengthen the skin’s natural barrier, support collagen production and reduce inflammation. All this to say, expect more resilient and regenerated skin.
Rationale #1 The Crème, $227, available at Freia
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Allies of Skin Multi-Peptides & GF Advanced Lifting Serum
Loaded with oligo growth factor and lifting peptides, this supercharged serum is clinically proven to reduce fine lines by 20 per cent in eight weeks. It also targets forehead and frown lines, crow’s feet and nasolabial folds for a firmer, smoother mien
Allies of Skin Multi-Peptides & GF Advanced Lifting Serum, $279, available at Sephora
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N°1 de Chanel Revitalizing Eye Cream
Energy in a jar: Peptides and red camellia extract work to de-puff, brighten and brighten eyes to address the first signs of fine lines, dehydration and dullness.
N°1 de Chanel Revitalizing Eye Cream, $120, available at Tangs
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The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + HA Serum
This serum offers a combination of peptides with overlapping benefits to address various signs of ageing simultaneously, from fine lines and wrinkles to a loss of firmness and elasticity.
The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + HA Serum, $36 for 30ml, available at Sephora
