At the age of 30, I finally feel like I’ve got my skincare routine locked down. And, yes, I am one of those people who subscribes to the idea of skincare as a form of self-care. Hitting the hyaluronic acid in the morning and the niacinamide at night makes me feel like the world is as it should be—even when, clearly, we’re going through Armageddon. In fact, I’m so obsessed with skin health that I almost gave my boyfriend third-degree burns after a retinol treatment went south. Always read the labels.
But there were days in my early twenties when I’d be lucky if I brushed my teeth before bed, let alone remove my makeup. Back then, I thought that rosacea was just booze rouge, vitamin C was only something you drank, and would shamefully shrug off sunburn as something that would turn into suntan later. Sound familiar?
Unfortunately, we cannot undo the sins of the past, but, you’ll be pleased to know that we can help make up for them in the present. Here, Vogue speaks to three skin experts about the most common mistakes we make when we were younger, and how we can rectify them now—because it’s never too late to start taking care of your skin.
Aegean Chan, dermatologist
What is the most common damage we do to our skin when we’re younger?
“The most common, preventable damage to our skin is from sun exposure, including tanning and sunburns. Most people can’t be bothered to put on and reapply sunscreen, especially when our skin seems to recover from the effects of UV damage with no visible consequences. However, UV radiation accumulates and manifests later in life as wrinkling, hyperpigmentation, thinning of the skin, sunspots, blotchiness, broken capillaries and most worryingly, skin cancer.”
How can we remedy this?
“It is never too late to start taking care of your skin. The damage from UV radiation is cumulative, so even if you start later in life, you can reduce your exposure to prevent future photodamage, which can help slow the progression of visible damage. It is just as important to protect our skin from UV damage later in life. This not only means using a generous amount of broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30, daily, but it also means practising sun avoidance by doing outdoor activities early in the morning and late afternoon, wearing sun-protective clothing and staying in the shade.
“Using a retinoid is a great way to help repair UV-induced damage in your skin — it helps treat fine lines, as well as UV-induced hyperpigmentation. Also, our skin is less able to hold on to water and becomes drier as we age. Using good moisturisers with ceramides and humectants such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid can help keep skin moist and supple.”
Jasmina Vico, skin health specialist
Is it ever too late to start taking care of your skin?
“It isn’t, but I won’t lie, the earlier you start, the better.”
How should we be looking after our skin?
“Wear sunscreen every day—yes, even when it’s cloudy. Apply a good topical vitamin C in the morning and a retinol A at night and a hydrator after both—it doesn’t have to be the priciest. We should be getting a good night’s sleep regularly and keeping an eye on things that trigger inflammation such as stress levels and diet. Treatments and products are important, but we have to think holistically too; how’s your gut, how are your magnesium levels?”
What advice should we be giving our children on skin health?
“We should educate our children on sun protection. Applying proper sunscreen, wearing a wide-brimmed hat when the sun is at its strongest, sunglasses that block UV rays. If you form these habits, you’ll prevent a lot of damage.
Dr Barbara Sturm, aesthetic doctor
What is the most common damage we do to our skin when we’re younger?
“Partly the overuse of aggressive acids, partly very simple steps such as not taking off makeup before going to bed. Eating a lot of sugar (which can cause breakouts), mixing too many different brands (and therefore ingredients), and overusing exfoliating products.”
What are the main ways we should be taking care of our skin in later life?
“The fundamentals of your skincare regime are the same no matter what: thorough cleansing, hydrating, exfoliating and application of the best anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidative, and nourishing ingredient science. This approach should be constant. Oral supplements to ensure you are meeting deficiencies in your diet are more important for your skin and health than ever.”
What should we teach our children?
“Diet is fundamental. Childhood skin reacts even more sensitively to what they eat, and the wrong things trigger inflammation. Inflammation, whether external or internal, is the root cause of much of the body’s and skin’s dysfunction and disease, from acne to rosacea, and inflammatory influences are everywhere—including everything we ingest.
“Kids love sugar, so this is a challenge. Too much sugar, as well as salt, processed or fried foods will have clearly visible negative effects on the skin. I recommend serving children mainly water or herbal tea instead of sodas or sugary juices and give children a diet rich in antioxidants, essential fatty acids and minerals.
“Anti-inflammatory foods to load up on including dark berries—cherries, blueberries, blackberries—green leafy vegetables, beans, seeds and nuts, as well as foods rich in glutathione, a potent antioxidant, such as asparagus, peppers, carrots, broccoli, avocados, squash or spinach. Fatty fish such as salmon are full of anti-inflammatory omega-3 fatty acids.
“Besides this, protect children from the elements. A gentle, safe sunscreen is imperative. Less obvious is anti-pollution protection if you are in an area with high air-pollution levels. Children should also be protected against excessive blue—or HEV—light from screens. HEV rays, which penetrate more deeply than UVA and UVB ones, can also be prevented by reducing children’s time looking at phone, tablet and computer screens. Good luck with that!”
