The Sultan of Zanzibar had a shark infestation problem in his harbour. To solve the problem, he bought 12 hippos to keep them at bay. But when the sharks gradually disappeared, the hippos became a nuisance and the sultan decided to have them slaughtered, except Hugo, the exquisite pink hippo. Hugo the Hippo was a Hungarian cartoon from 1975. It was also a defining show that had me musing about Africa from a very tender age.
My obsession with palaeontology and wildlife saw me wandering through countless nature reserves and zoos growing up. Visiting Africa, especially, has always been on my list of things to do before I wilt. Thanks to my deputy editor, who joked about how she probably wouldn’t be able to differentiate between a horse and a zebra, I was nudged into taking her place to experience Phinda, a private game reserve with &Beyond, an award-winning travel company that customises exceptional tours across their 29 privately owned lodges across Africa, Asia and South America.
Despite being a seasoned packer, preparing for Phinda proved to be something else. Given that it requires three connecting flights to get to the reserve in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, an inherent weight allowance does stop one from packing like it is Fashion Week. For reference, a maximum of 20kg is allowed with an extra 5kg for hand carry—and it is vital to note that only soft trunks and overnighters are permitted, which means, sorry guys, no fancy Rimowas allowed.
Here comes the tough part: the contents of one’s bag. What attire is appropriate for a safari to evoke the refined characters of Sydney Pollack’s Out of Africa rather than resembling a character from Jumanji?
A quick search on Google suggests that prints, bold colours and dark inky shades of navy and blacks are to be avoided since they attract insects and can sometimes confuse the animals. Ultimately, it’s about respecting the environment you’re in and not sticking out like a sore thumb.
I self-talked my way into keeping everything practical—but since I also work in fashion, I decided to lug a pair of suede western Margiela tabis for that dose of irony.
Getting to Phinda
After nearly 11 hours of flight time from Singapore to Johannesburg, I checked into the charming Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa to catch some much-needed shut-eye before continuing the next two legs of my journey: a 30-minute flight to Kruger and, finally, an exhilarating ride in a 12-seater plane straight into the heart of Phinda, all in under two hours.
The &Beyond Private Game Reserve spans 28,966 hectares of land and is best known for its abundant wildlife and diverse habitats—seven to be exact. From sand forests to marshes and open grassland, the variegation boasts some of the best terrains to spot the Big Five and many rarer species such as cheetahs and black rhinos.
Upon touchdown, the smell of stale animal urine filled the air, a scent that can only be described as sharp and musky all at once. “A redolence that comes from hooved animals,” exclaims Jess, a recently certified guide at Phinda game reserve. And just like the opening sequence of Jurassic Park, we drive straight into a sounder of warthogs flanked by curious cape buffalos and wildebeests. “Welcome to Phinda!” someone in the car shouts. I feel light-headed with adrenaline as we race through clusters of dense vegetation to be hit with an unexpected slamming of the brakes. Standing before us is a lone bull elephant wedging his head between two branches of an acacia tree in search of fresh shoots. The majestic beast is a sight to behold and upon taking in that one last bit of spectacle, we drive straight into another—this time, two female lions lounging under a shady canopy. “You have no idea how lucky you are,” Jess affirms.
The &Beyond Phinda Forest Lodge
A 45-minute drive later, with three out of the Big Five in the bag, we finally arrive at the iconic property. Built in the early ’90s, the lodge opens up to a breathtaking central firepit that connects the main restaurant, pool area and the ultra-charming multipurpose room—one that is carefully decorated with tiny trinkets: traditional Zulu rattan papasan chairs, geometric Ndebele-patterned rugs, and side tables made out of logs. It allows one to disconnect and take in the spectacular view of the wetlands
that surround the property. (A highly recommended spot to catch that fiery amber sunset, if you ask me.)
And because the lodges are built within Phinda’s distinctive sand forest amplified by a glass-walled cabin, I see myself walking up to grazing nyalas and bushbucks (two species of antelopes commonly found in the area) as we are shown to our rooms. Once inside, the trappings of a luxury hotel are carefully stripped back to reveal a mix of craft and artistry that reflects the rich culture of its natives thanks to the thoughtful approach in design by award-winning interior designers and hospitality architects Debra Fox and Christopher Browne of Foxbrowne Creative.
Hailing from a cosmopolitan city like Singapore where the only form of wildlife is perhaps getting harassed by an angry neighbour, I find myself walking head-on into a hyena the very next morning, which gets me scrambling back to my room—a clear indication that this is as real as it can get when it comes to living in the heart of a jungle.
Activities at Phinda
Each day starts with an early morning drive—5.30am to be exact—because the temperature soars by mid-morning. Afterwards, I have the day to myself, so I lounge by the pool, get a massage and go on a bike tour around the reserve. Evening expeditions, on the other hand, are the best as the lures of twilight bring about sightings of diurnal wildlife such as African civets, giraffes, hippos and baboons. There is an instance when a cackle of hyenas comes up to our jeep for an inquisitive sniff. The most unforgettable moment, however, is sundown drinks overlooking a reservoir full of hippos. And because hippos have excellent hearing, our constant cackling results in three adult hippos swimming up close to the banks out of sheer curiosity. This, for me, is a moment
to remember forever.
And as if that experience alone isn’t enough, we return to the lodge and are treated to a glorious dinner overlooking the firepit under a star-lit sky. The extensive wine list coupled with a wide selection of roasts, curries, salads and even an Asian alternative menu, is impressive. It all ends with a splendid washdown of Amarula liqueur before I am escorted back.
Giving back to the community
The trip to Phinda ends with a visit to a Zulu village where we are immersed in the customs of its people. This comes in the form of storytelling and an intriguing dance ritual performed by a local fortune teller, a skill bestowed to one by the spirits of the land. But what holds a special place in my heart is when we are taken to Mdudla Primary School, a centre with the aim to uplift and empower while caring for its land and the community.
I have the privilege of sitting in one of the classes where the children are exposed to topics such as biodiversity and land conservation through sustainable living. I soon realise that resources are scarce: computers are only found in admin rooms while rulers double up as spoons during lunch breaks.
But that does not deter the children from wanting to come to school because they know that education will improve their way of life—and that’s where &Beyond comes into the picture. Aside from translocating animals all over Africa in hopes of conserving wildlife, &Beyond is also responsible for the care of its community in Phinda, where jobs, education and even access to water are funded through regenerative travelling. Each traveller plays a role in supporting a community like Phinda when they choose to travel with &Beyond—an initiative that I think is not only powerful but necessary.
Now, with the June school holidays around the corner, I encourage you to think of travel beyond the intention of shopping and eating. Open yourself up to an experience like Phinda’s, where I guarantee it will forever change the way you look at life while contributing to the greater good.
Below, find Lim’s safari packing list for ideas on how to travel in style.
1 / 9
Prada miniskirt, $2,290
2 / 9
Tiffany & Co cuff, US$1,000
3 / 9
H&M x Rokh jacket, $319.95
4 / 9
Chanel sunglasses, $790
5 / 9
Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello jumpsuit, $6,890
6 / 9
Maison Margiela boots, $2,128 from Farfetch
7 / 9
Loro Piana cape, US$6,106 from Net-a-Porter
8 / 9
