Paris haute couture fashion week is back in full swing, starting off with several fashion heavyweights such as Dior, Schiaparelli, Giambattista Valli and Chanel showcasing their couture spring/summer 2023 collections. Maria Grazia Chiuri referenced the iconic French dancer and civil rights activist Josephine Baker, paying homage to the ’20s with midi suits, grey blazers and impeccable tuxedo coats. Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli showcase took inspiration from the poem Inferno by Italian writer Dante Alighieri, tackling symbols of sin and surrealism all while reimagining women in menswear. Plunging tuxedoes and exaggerated suits—made from fabrics traditionally seen in menswear—presented hyper-feminine silhouettes. Through the first few showings, it appears as though old glamour is back—with the brands stripping back on pizzaz—as the garments that graced the runway were classic and timeless, albeit with bold embellishments.
Likewise, off the runway, show-goers seemed to have caught on to the relatively muted approach and embraced it fully. Monochromatic ensembles of beiges and browns seem to be a recurring theme, and all-black outfits remain a popular favourite. Chiffon and tulle dresses appear a hot commodity, in demure shades of pastel and white. Edgy tailoring and tasteful evening coats were paired with sensible bags and shoes, while bold patterns were layered with considered basics that toned down the outfit. Some of the biggest fashion trends in the past year such as racer leather jackets and furry bucket hats have continued to leave their mark, with no signs of slowing down. Celebrities such as Blackpink’s Jisoo and Kylie Jenner emerged surrounded by throngs of fans, while Doja Cat attending Schiaparelli covered in 30,000 crystals proved to be the boldest look from the first day.
With two more days of couture left to go, the anticipation is palpitating. Below, Phil Oh captures the sprit and buzz of Paris haute couture spring/summer 2023, encapsulated by the best street style looks throughout all four days.
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