Julie de Libran was back on the couture schedule after a two-season hiatus, showing again in her chic Parisian flat, whose atmosphere is the perfect frame for her creations. She designs for women like her—sophisticated, cultivated, enjoying an intense social life.
De Libran has embraced for quite some time a responsible way of producing collections, working mainly with deadstocks from the best fournisseurs in France, so her pieces are at the same time one-of-a-kind and made with a clever waste-reducing mindset. Designed with a feminine hand, her collections have a lightness to them which make this season’s inspiration rather plausible. “I’ve always been fascinated by an image Peter Lindbergh shot of Amber Valletta as an angel flying over the gritty streets of New York City,” she explained. “She looked so delicate, but the image had such a force. This collection is dedicated to my angels.”
The occasion dress is De Libran’s favourite wardrobe staple, and here she offered delightful options, both svelte and elegant. She kept the silhouettes fluid, as in a gold lamé high-slit number draped with artful nonchalance, or in a bias-cut, asymmetrical white sequined dress with feather trimming, whose Greek-goddess vibe was played down by a certain ineffable je ne sais quoi.
Gently expanding her repertoire was the introduction of separates, as in a two-piece ensemble in luscious satin, a pleated skirt and a pussy-bow blouse whose bourgeois charm was contrasted by a square-cut cropped jacket in a gold cloqué brocade. On a more sensual note, De Libran reworked a black Erès stretch-lace bodysuit adding an embroidered crystal trompe-l’oeil necklace, or encrusted a lacy midriff-baring bralette with sequins and appliqués, pairing it with an ankle-grazing circle skirt. De Libran has a very French way of setting off a subtly erotic vibe.
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