Within fashion, the idea of an It brand has been one that is perpetual, unchanging despite the constant shifts in trends and zeitgeist. A term often used to describe a brand that has garnered considerable hype in the moment, each season sees different brands come go, with many waning in currency and quickly being replaced by new competitors. Amidst the flurry of buzzy labels all fighting for the spotlight, one Swedish brand has quietly—but quickly—cemented itself as a new crowd favourite: Hodakova.
Founded by designer and creative director Ellen Hodakova Larsson in 2021, the eponymous label has risen as one of the must-see brands on the Paris Fashion Week calendar. A semi-finalist of the LVMH prize 2024 (the first from her country), Larsson’s ethos is one grounded by Scandinavian design principles of sustainability and utilitarianism. Her works also often explore ideas of deconstruction and fetichism, themes commonly adopted by many European brands.
In March this year, Larsson unveiled Hodakova’s fall/winter 2024 collection, undoubtedly the brand’s most anticipated showing to date. Held in an intimate gallery space within the cultural district of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, the latest collection served as a recollection of Larsson’s childhood memories growing up, and was filled with personal references to both her father and grandmother. There were nods to Swedish folklore and British country style, by way of a chesterfield sofa-inspired dress and reversed tartan coats.
“Raised on the farm, we grew not just food but a sense of resourcefulness that shapes me to this day.”
Present in the collection were also equestrian tropes, stemming from Larsson’s horse riding passion since young. Reconstruction was the name of the game, with models donning accessories such as a briefcase turned dress and riding boots that were repurposed into a bag or neckpiece, displays of the brand’s efforts towards sustainability. “Raised on the farm, we counted pennies and grew not just food but a sense of resourcefulness that shapes me to this day,” shares Larsson of the collection in its official press release.
But perhaps the defining moment for the brand came through recent celebrity dressings. The most notable would certainly be Cate Blanchett’s look at the Borderlands premiere, where the esteemed Hollywood actress wore a custom top that saw 102 metal spoons attached to it. Apart from Blanchett’s viral ensemble, other stars—and rightful style mavens—Greta Lee and BlackPink’s Rosé have been seen donning statement Hodakova ensembles for their various press events. And in January last year, beauty mogul and style maven Kylie Jenner took to her Instagram in a strapless denim top from the brand, kickstarting what has been a meteoric rise to fashion stardom.
Now four years in and countless designs deep, there remains an unwavering confidence within Larsson’s work, one that exudes a level of rigour and seriousness juxtaposed with the designer’s signature touch of eccentricity and playfulness. And in a current fashion climate that often prioritises commercial viability over intricate storytelling, Larsson’s authenticity and vision is certainly refreshing, romantic, and sentimental to all.
For more information on the fall/winter 2024 collection, visit Hodakova’s official website here.
