“Equestrian Techno” were the very first words that jumped out of Hermès’ description of its fall/winter 2022 collection. And with each look Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski sent down the runway, the term was more than solidified. As we find ourselves approaching the midway mark of Paris Fashion Week and the tailend of fashion month, certain themes have struck a consistent chord throughout. The first of many? The style set’s desire to dress with ease, youthfulness and to simply, well, show some skin. It’s clear that designers across the board, Vanhee-Cybulski included, seem to get it.
At Hermès, fall/winter 2022’s porthole of liberation was subtle, but its emphasis on women was not. “With a light step, she moves forward enfolded in a second skin knitwear that is a play on transparency. The chain on her belt makes a faint sound,” concured the collection’s press notes. Setting the tone for the entirety of the show were pockets of surprises, artfully designed to emulate the Hermès woman’s take on sex appeal.
Through Vanhee-Cybulski’s eyes this looked like a play on proportions in a flurry of muted colours from powdery blues to striking olives. First, was an assortment of thigh-high knits layered under the maison’s fresh take on the riding boot. Then, was an altering of hemlines in the form of mini shorts and dresses. Artfully interspersed in between were sheer-panelled sweaters coupled with brilliantly luscious leather skirts, positioned ever-so-slightly at the base of the hip.
Such was the beauty of the collection: with both the absence and presence of skin, each creation seemed to take the eye on a journey through a maze of sultriness. A trek which was playfully interrupted only by what many have come to love Hermès for: its classics.
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