One doesn’t watch a Gucci show for its contuinity. Instead, one immerses themselves in its extravagance and visual disruption. Such was the hidden easter egg in the maison’s fall/winter 2022 collection’s title: Exquisite Gucci. Inspired by a Surrealist game from the mid-1920’s, Cadavre Exquis—which translates to ‘exquisite corpse’—Gucci’s return to Milan’s runways was an exacting nod to Alessandro Michele’s eclectic fashion assembly line.
He explains this further in his press notes, using the analogy of fashion and mirrors. “I use the metaphor of the magical mirror to approach the phantasmagorical power of fashion. A sacred power that radiates from the surface of the fabrics.” He adds: “And there I work, on this tactile surface, through cross references, alterations, loopholes and grafts. Through these interventions, I celebrate the clothes as real optical labs: magical machines that can give birth to fairy tales of metamorphosis and re-enchantment.”
There were more than a few instances of this on the runway. First, was the reveal of Gucci’s collaboration with Adidas. After months of swirling rumours, the crossover was confirmed through an amalgamation of sportswear and tailoring. Amongst them was the look that started it all—a red, maxi sweater dress with Adidas’ famous white stripes paired with multicoloured kicks—the latter of which was spotted on Madonna back in 1993. Other standout looks included panelled Adidas-meets-Gucci corsetry, casual caps and even a head-to-toe knitted ski look with all the hallmarks of athletic glamour. Offsetting this, however, was a selection of flowing maxi dresses: a cream number in satin anchored by a prominent logo and a ruched green cloud of tulle paired with netted stockings and boots.
Peppered in the line-up was Michele’s take on suits on both men and women: draped off the shoulder, fitted at the waist and oversized. And as varied as they were, they all seemed to fulfil the brief at hand, which, as Michele puts it, is “the celebration of the metamorphosis”.
1 / 12
2 / 12
3 / 12
4 / 12
5 / 12
6 / 12
7 / 12
8 / 12
9 / 12
10 / 12
11 / 12
12 / 12
