I have been the victim of some unfortunate ear-piercing experiences in the past (corned beef ear, anyone?), so am always hesitant when it comes to getting more. The bravest decisions, however, are often made on the spur of the moment, and that’s exactly how I came to have my conch pierced (to the uninitiated, that’s the cartilage piercing in the inner spiral of the ear) in the chic and intimate environs of jeweller Hannah Martin’s Clerkenwell studio.
If you’d asked me beforehand if I’d let someone stick a needle through the centre of my ear, I would have responded with a definitive “No way!” But the charming Martin and her piercing artist Roni gently explained that the conch offered the best chance for a speedy cartilage-piercing recovery. Once I had chosen my earring—an edgy-but-elegant gold stud that centres on a reverse-set cognac diamond—I was an (almost pain-free) member of the conch club within seconds.
Martin’s entire approach to Hannah Martin Pierced is to take piercing out of the shady backrooms of Soho and high streets across Britain and elevate it to a true luxury experience, one that equips clients with the best advice about piercing choice and aftercare. She has spent years developing the concept, gathering expert knowledge on hygiene, placement and product design and seeking out the finest piercers in the business.
A few weeks later, and my conch piercing is healing beautifully. I’m already considering getting another. Will it be a tragus, a helix or a rook? Who knows, I’ll have to consult Martin first. Planning to take the piercing plunge yourself? Make sure you read her tips for a safe, happy and beautiful experience, below.
How should you decide on earring placement?
You may have a clear idea of where you want a piercing to be before you book in for an appointment, but it’s good to be aware that certain areas of the ear heal more easily than others. Any fleshy parts will heal quickly, making them a great place to start if you have any anxieties. If you’re looking for a more unusual placement, I always recommend the conch as the “low-hanging fruit” of the cartilage. It looks dramatic, but the pain levels are minimal (I say this from personal experience), and because the ear itself is protecting the piercing, it’s much less likely to get caught or knocked. By contrast, anything at the top of the ear or along its outer edges takes just that bit longer to recover.
Is it okay to get piercings in both ears at once?
Yes, but think about how you sleep. Simple lobe piercings shouldn’t cause problems at night because they heal quickly, but if you’re going for cartilage piercings, think about which side you sleep on (if any) and maybe do one ear at a time. Sleep is so important for healing.
How many piercings should you get in one sitting?
We recommend three at a maximum. If you’re doing lobe piercings only, then four is manageable. When in doubt, take things slowly. I like to think of piercings as a lifelong journey. You don’t need to get everything done all at once.
What’s the best way to find a piercing studio?
The studio you choose is of the utmost importance. Make sure you go somewhere that gives you the luxury of time and lets you really enjoy the experience. You should be given a consultation beforehand, ideally with the person who will be doing your piercing; given a thorough explanation of the aftercare required; and allowed to relax for a bit afterwards, too. Do your research about individual piercers, as well. For years now, we’ve talked about tattoo artists as “artists” but piercers often get unfairly overlooked. The creativity of a placement, the knowledge of your anatomy, the angle of a piercing, even the “bedside manner” of a piercer… all of it determines whether you have a good or bad outcome. Look for experience, of course, but also personal recommendations.
How do you pick which jewellery to get pierced with?
Of course, the jewellery that you’re pierced with is an essential component of the whole experience. While developing the HMP line, we’ve all been on an educational journey, to say the least. Previously, I had no idea how much the quality of an earring could affect the healing process and the longevity of a piercing. The craftsmanship has to be literally perfect, and the weight is also important, as anything too heavy can make recovery difficult. An experienced piercer should be able to guide you through all of this.
The thickness of the post is also super important. You really shouldn’t be pierced with a post of less than 1.2mm (16 gauge). This is going to sound gruesome, but if the post is too thin, it can easily tear the flesh. On top of that, when the holes heal, they shrink and end up being too small.
Finally, the look of the jewellery is of course key. Get pierced with something you love and want to wear long-term so you aren’t tempted to swap it out too early, which is when almost all healing issues happen. That’s why I designed my pieces with interchangeable elements, so when you’ve got through the first stage of the healing process, you can swap the ends for a different look without affecting the piercing itself.
What’s the best way to approach piercing aftercare?
I cannot stress enough how important aftercare is. Getting pierced is a commitment. There are the basics of aftercare which are, of course, essential—keeping your piercing clean, not touching it, and not taking it out too soon—but you also need to take care of your overall health and wellbeing while you recover. Eat well, get plenty of sleep, cut back on anything that brings toxins into your system. It all sounds obvious, but it’s easy to forget. You will notice, even with fully healed piercings, that if you hit a moment when you’re run down, they can start to feel aggravated. It’s your body’s way of telling you that you need to fix something. Listen to it (and your piercings)!
This story originally appeared in British Vogue.
