“Change is the only constant in life.” Such were the words of Greek philosopher Heraclitus some 2,500 years ago. And while the saying has stood the test of time for good reason, it seems especially prevalent in an age where stillness is perceived as unimaginative defeat. Zoom in a little closer, however—to the burgeoning fashion scene on our shores, to be exact—and change serves a different purpose: one of renewal, revival and progress.
At the forefront of this metamorphosis? A new vanguard of thought leaders redefining creativity as we know it. From challenging ideas of beauty at modelling agency Misc Management to empowering wearers through corsetry, Timothy Tan, Ethan Lai, Kenneth Chia, Putri Adif and Spades are paving the way. Here, they come together to interpret Vogue’s global theme of ‘Fashion’s New World’ through a surrealist-inspired shoot and expand on their vision for Singapore’s creative future.
Ethan Lai, 25, photographer
On communicating through imagery:
Through my work, I hope to demonstrate that fashion can be so much more than just beautiful; in this expansive vision, it is academic, light-hearted, dark, funny, sometimes all at once.
On growth in the creative community:
I’d like to see the creative community have fun, do what they want to do with their work and not be afraid to experiment or start their own thing. I see that now already, so hopefully this continues and the momentum keeps growing. I’d also love to see fashion be acknowledged as more than just a commerce outlet, but also as a medium to express one’s narratives and sociocultural identity.
On interpreting ‘Fashion’s New World’:
To me, it means redefining the industry’s grounds to move beyond what’s safe and traditional, paving the way for a more expressive, liberal and inclusive space to create work, and being recognised and acknowledged for it.
On personal successes and challenges:
Stagnating within my practice is something I find challenging. It’s easy to be safe and keep to what you know, but I want to experiment with new ways of creating work that feels fulfilling to me. A recent success for me was having the opportunity to co-curate the latest iteration of #SGFashionNow at the Asian Civilisations Museum. It gave me new insights into collaborating with a public institution, fashion curation and working with new mediums to present fashion imagery. I see it as a success because I got to work with young local designers to showcase their pieces.
Kenneth Chia, 28, make up artist
On reimagining the modern-day make-up artist:
Today, there are so many ways for make-up artists to shape the beauty ecosystem. We no longer need to be boxed in and that’s exciting. Someone whose career trajectory I admire is Isamaya Ffrench. She’s developed such a bold voice but has been able to meld it with the codes of some of the most respected brands in fashion. She also wears many hats, from creative director to product developer. I believe the future of beauty will be a lot more fluid.
On developing a voice in the beauty industry:
As make-up artists, we’ve been captivated by stunning runway moments from the likes of Mugler, Galliano, Versace and McQueen. But over time, I’ve also learnt to fall in love with the idea of context; there is a time and place for every sort of beauty. Sometimes, restraint is the best thing and sometimes, a lack thereof. It’s important to remember that it’s not always about the make-up; it’s about the final image or person. And everyone’s job is to make it the best it can be.
On championing inclusivity and mental wellness:
It’s really important that my make-up chair is a safe space where people can be themselves. Often, I’m the first person working with talent in the morning and that relationship sets the tone for how they feel for the rest of the day. I also keep myself open to projects that champion diverse forms of self-expression. How do we produce work that is not just great, but adds to the global dialogue on beauty as it shifts? How do we make work that expands notions of beauty, instead of limiting it?
On impacting the local creative community:
One of the things I wanted to do was to be an available resource to the pool of many young creatives in the scene. My direct messages are always open. Coming from not having any connections to this industry, I know how intimidating it is to get advice. Hopefully, I’ll be able to create looks that expand on notions of beauty and contribute to the bigger picture of what Singapore’s creative community can offer on a global stage.
Timothy Tan, 31, founding partner and head booker, Misc Management
On breaking boundaries:
At Misc, we are constantly asking how we can try new things. Or seeing something that’s been done and thinking, can it be done differently? Growing up, it was also something my mother instilled in me—the need to be curious, to find different ways and to question, even if that meant questioning authority. I’m of the belief that there’s always room for improvement and that progress, even if it’s small, is the most important thing.
On what makes Singapore’s fashion scene unique:
Similar to the creative industry, I feel that Singapore has long been untapped, always on the verge of discovery yet never fully there. It’s because of this lack of self-discovery that I feel we’re unique. Because we’re on the way ‘there’, we could really be anywhere. On impacting the local creative community: Misc was founded by creatives, so our direction has always been to not just take care of our own, but to uplift the culture around us. It’s extremely important that we as an industry and a scene can grow together as the two are interconnected, yet many have neglected this. It is for this reason that Misc has a Creative Support Programme that is geared towards targeting creatives who are looking to pursue their personal work or passions. To date, we’ve supported numerous projects with talent and resources. We’re always looking for more confident people who are passionate in their work because we understand the struggle to create without support.
On interpreting ‘Fashion’s New World’:
I’d like to think it means a change in mindset, away from the idea of trends. It’s not sustainable and it has distracted from the growth we could have had. Good work can’t be rushed or mass-produced. I intend to take the time needed to create something less fleeting.
Shane Tan, Moh Ee Jin, Gloria Liew and Greg Tan, in their early 20s, co-founders of multi-label collective Spades
On reimagining retail spaces:
We have always felt that Singapore needed something more for the community; a place where people can go to see what we have to offer. Most design outlets here are usually out of reach to the average creative and can be intimidating to up-and-coming designers. With Spades, we want to be a platform for creatives to showcase their work, with greater community outreach than everything else in Singapore.
On defining Spades:
Spades is a multi-label collective that seeks to represent up-and-coming brands and creatives that we believe will shape and nurture the culture in Singapore, through a curated space that presents the best of what Singaporean and international creatives have to offer. From fashion to music, we aspire to be the platform for the community, a sanctuary for all design and creativity. On impacting the local creative community: Our goal is to be a driving force in Singapore’s creative culture, with our focus being not just fashion but everything encompassing the creative industry from music to art. We want to rid the idea of ‘smaller’, ‘local’ brands being segregated from bigger brands.
On what makes Singapore’s fashion scene unique:
Rent here is so high, especially in prime areas, so people are forced to think outside the box to create something interesting with what they have. On top of that, with Singapore being so small, everyone knows each other. We have the benefit of the simplicity of networking, collaborating and creating with each other without travelling far distances. We have so many great aspiring designers, photographers, musicians, artists and creatives within this small bubble and that is what makes Singapore so unique.
Putri Adif, 24, fashion designer and stylist
On her early influences:
The first time I had the interest in both fashion design and styling would be when I was young and saw my grandmother matching her baju kurung to her tudung, kitten heels and bag. She would have custom made baju tailored for herself with different fabrics and textures.
On how she wants people to feel wearing her designs:
I want them to feel beautiful, familiar, comfortable and empowered. Batik is a beautiful fabric with so much history dating back to over 2,000 years ago. It has so many stories to tell through the colour pigments, waxing methods, motifs and symbolism. A core memory growing up would be my mother and grandmother having so many batik kains in their collection.
On impacting the local creative community:
I’m not looking to move mountains, but I hope to make an impact in little ways: to challenge the stereotypes, to break boundaries and speak for what I stand for. I hope for youth to embrace and feel empowered by their roots and culture. Aside from fashion, I’d say I grew up with a lot of art around me as my father is an artist.
Photography Ethan Lai
Styling Jasmine Ashvinkumar, Putri Adif
Hair Dollei Seah
Makeup Entourage using Keune and YSL Beauty
Make-up Zhou Aiyi
Hair and make-up assistant Jen Lim/Makeup Entourage
Photographer’s assistant Wanjie Li
Stylist’s assistant Nicole Ng
Models/talent Macky/Misc Management, Kenneth Chia, Ethan Lai, Timothy Tan and Putri Adif
Photography Ethan Lai
Styling Jasmine Ashvinkumar, Putri Adif
Hair EC Tan/Less Is More
Make-up Kenneth Chia using MAC Cosmetics;
Nails The Fluttery Tips
Make-up assistant Lucas Tan
Photographer’s assistant Wanjie Li
Stylist’s assistant Nicole Ng
Models Jaden, Dewy and Tessa/Misc Management
Special thanks Blackcrow Taxidermy
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